Luring food lovers south of the river one highly anticipated opening at a time, Bristol’s new harbourside development is the latest neighbourhood to join the cluster of indie communities. With the first gang of gaffs finally settled in, Kathryn Lewis took an edible excursion
Bristol brekkie 9am
Ease into the day with a flat white and freshly baked almond croissant at Mokoko, the working bakery and coffee emporium slap bang in the centre of Wapping Wharf. Grab a pew at one of the communal benches, watch the bakers at work and hatch a piggy plan for the day.
If something more substantial is in order, upscale to breakfast in bread at Pigsty (pictured above), one of the four gourmet gaffs occupying the 18 converted cargo containers. Pork and sage sausage, black treaclecured bacon, free range eggs and cheese in a baked sourdough; now that’s what we call a good start to the day.
Inedible offerings 11am
Fill the gap between the morning feed and midday munchies with a snoop around the area’s – dare we say it – inedible offerings. Question how many succulents are socially acceptable on one office desk at The Mighty Quinn’s Flower Emporium, before popping next door to Shambarber for a fresh crop.
Laidback lunchin’ 1pm
With so many indie eats in one place, picking a spot for lunch isn’t a decision to be rushed.
Wild Beer’s digs overlooking the water are a great shout for a fine feed with a little liquid refreshment. Make your way through the seasonal beer board before tucking into proper pub grub such as panko breaded fish with seaweed salted chips.
We love the small plates stacked with triple cooked beef, sea bass tartare and Korean fried-chicken stuffed bao buns at Woky Ko (pictured above), the laidback Asian eatery from MasterChef finalist Larkin Cen. And veg-centric lovelies – think swede carbonara, grilled marrow and cider rarebit – at Eat Drink Bristol Fashion’s Root are worth a go, too.
Rack ’em up 3pm
Make sure to pack a shopper because one aisle in at Better Food you’ll be heading back for a basket. Weighed down with Bristol beer, locally grown veggies and a couple of pies for the freezer from Lovett a few doors down, check in at the Bristol Cider Shop for a bottle of cider brandy and a swig of the sweet stuff. Oh, and make time to prop up the tiny bar and talk wine with one of the experts over a glass of sherry at Corks at Cargo.
Little luxuries 7pm
If you haven’t already popped into Little Victories for a speciality brew from local roastery Clifton Coffee, then a pre-dinner espresso martini or Psychopomp G&T is in order. Open ’til nine Wednesday to Saturday, there’s also local cheese and charcuterie for impatient appetites.
Dinner dilemmas 8pm
Picking a spot for dinner isn’t going to be any easier than lunch, but that’s why you’ve booked a return trip next week, right?
It’s worth planning ahead if you want to secure one of the 14 tables at BOX-E (pictured above), the seasonal modern British joint from Elliott Lidstone – formerly of London’s Empress – and his wife Tessa. The menu is as compact as the shipping container it calls home, but with impressive dishes fashioned from local produce and an ambitious wine list, it’s worth scrabbling for a seat. The unwritten tasting menu offered at the four kitchen stools is a must for adventurous eaters.
Bertha’s is worth a visit for the seven strong negroni offering alone, though the wickedly chewy stone-baked sourdough pizzas slathered in luscious local ingredients are also a bit of alright. And if you want something for the road, Pizzarova is on hand with dough-to-go from a converted Land Rover in the car park.