Scott Paton, head chef of Michelin-starred Àclèaf restaurant in Plymouth, shares tips on how to use autumn’s apples
Where to source
The South West is renowned for many things, not least its crisp, juicy apples and resulting exceptional ciders. While this quintessential seasonal ingredient is readily available from supermarkets year-round, the very best fruit is found at local farm shops and markets in late autumn.
Scott Paton loves this season’s fruit but waits for the perfect moment before harvesting. He says: ‘You always get what’s called a first drop, which are the apples the tree sacrifices to focus its energy on making the next apples juicy and healthy. So for the pick of the crop, look for apples in late September and October.
‘We have an orchard at Boringdon Hall where we grow Cox and Russet varieties. If you don’t have access to orchard apples, I’d avoid supermarket apples and try to find English varieties at good local farm shops and markets.’
How to prep
Scott says: ‘A lot of recipes that use apples require the natural pectin the fruit is known for. Much of that pectin comes from the core and seeds, so if you’re making a puree, sauce or jam, get as close to the core as possible when trimming the apple.’
For pastries, however, it’s a different story. ‘You don’t want pectin in tarts and cakes. For a dessert like a tarte tatin, we look for a drier apple, like a Russet, that won’t release too much juice and make the pastry soggy and dilute the caramel.’
How to serve
Apples are one of the most versatile autumn ingredients, lending themselves equally well to sweet and savoury dishes.
‘For a savoury application, create a chutney or an apple sauce to serve with your Sunday lunch roast pork,’ says Scott.
For dessert, his preference is clear. ‘I always think an apple pie is better than a crumble.’
At Àclèaf, however, the team take a more refined approach, serving apple tarte tatin paired with a wedge of blue cheese. ‘It adds the sweet and textural components that balance the cheese. Tarte tatin also works beautifully served with game or duck, doused in a rich sauce, where it provides the same balance and sweetness.’
For purists, Scott recommends serving a whole tarte tatin warm as a sharing dessert, accompanied by custard and generous scoops of ice cream.
Wine pairing
When it comes to pairing wine with apple desserts, the chef looks to an off-dry English white wine to balance the richness of baked apples and pastry.
‘Sandridge Barton’s demi-sec Bacchus, Stop Ferment, is a wonderful match for apple tarte tatin. Tropical, zesty fruit notes bring brightness and complexity, while the gently sweet finish complements the caramelised apples and buttery pastry, and everything is balanced by its refreshing acidity.’
Enjoyed Scott Paton’s cooking tips for how to use autumn’s apples? Find out what it’s like to dine at Àclèaf.
