Presenting itself as ‘the country house hotel by the sea’, this thoroughly charming and gloriously traditional hotel certainly lives up to its billing

It’s all about the details at The Nare; the sort of things that can take years to get tickety boo, and indeed the hotel has been in the Ashworth family since Bettye Gray took it on as a “retirement project” in her 70s. Now grandson Toby’s the skipper on this particular boat, although he’s got a few others in the fleet (more on which later).

VISIT FOR generous hospitality: the large bottles of Penhaligon’s Quercus toiletries in the bathrooms, the decanter of sherry and bucket of ice in the bedrooms, and the canapés served to guests sinking their first aperitif in the bar. On the latter, it’s worth mentioning the fabulous Ken, who’se been barman here for 35 years. ‘Very particular,’ is how Toby describes him, with obvious affection. On the food front, treats include lobster, which is on the menu every night of the year (weather permitting), and beautiful Cornish beef which is a particular fave for Sunday lunches. Dine at the hotel restaurant or the more relaxed Quarterdeck, which holds two AA rosettes.

DON’T VISIT if you’re after a hip hangout. This is somewhere to channel your inner Ian Fleming with a brandy after dinner.

WE LIKED the location right on the beach, the outdoor pool and retro changing huts, and the Alice Rose 38′ classic gentleman’s motor launch which takes guests out for lunch on the water. There’s also a Cornish crabber if you want a bit more maritime action.