The Rising Sun, Truro

This popular dining destination on the edge of city centre Truro channels sociable village pub vibes – but with elevated cooking and a bountiful array of drinks – discovers Rosanna Rothery

In an era when many city centre pubs have been shut down and boarded up, it’s a joy to discover an urban “local” which still plays a vibrant role in its community. Families, visiting foodies, real ale drinkers and wine buffs all treat The Rising Sun like home.

It may be just on the edge of the city but it feels like a delightful country pub, thanks to its contemporary-but-comfy decor and warren of cosy nooks. Regulars drop in to chat with friends over a pint by the fire, try one of the huge array of local craft gins at the bar and, during summer, decompress after work with a glass of fizz in the courtyard garden.

VISIT for destination dining with brilliant bonhomie.

Owners Tom and Katie Hannon are obviously sorcerers when it comes to hospitality because, even in the bleak days of midwinter (we visited during the second week of January), the pub was heaving. In addition, all of the tables in the raised dining area were occupied by diners enjoying a menu that was a lot more interesting than the usual ultra-predictable pub grub.

Since taking over The Rising Sun in 2014, chef Tom, whose career has Michelin-starred cred, has been elevating the food offering so there’s no need to worry about encountering bought-in, quick-assembly dishes. Instead you’ll find carefully executed classics crafted around Cornish produce such as brisket, locally reared duck and 28-day aged ribeye steak.

The front of house team create a special atmosphere (candles, low lighting, soft music and friendly service) without any over-the-top frippery. Smart food is served without pomp and the crew are happy to recommend tipples – from budget-friendly to break-the-bank – without a hint of wine snobbery.

DON’T VISIT on a diet. Rich and indulgent dishes served in generous portions may require an extra session at the gym.

WE LIKED the Secret Cellar wine list (an addition to the main drinks menu) which is Tom and Katie’s curated list of bottles they absolutely love, including those from organic vineyards.

And don’t leave without sampling what we think is the pièce de résistance: the decadent puds. The highlight of the meal was a suitably wicked salted caramel chocolate tart accompanied by a marvellously mellow malted milk sorbet and crunchy honeycomb popping candy.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Pan roasted wood pigeon, roasted root veg, pancetta and red wine jus

Main Roasted duck, orange-glazed carrots, carrot puree, sprouting broccoli, pomegranate jus

Pud Buttermilk pannacotta, clementine biscotti

3 courses from £24

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