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Hotel review: The Alverton, Truro

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Once a convent for The Order of the Epiphany, today The Alverton is a sanctuary for those who worship at the altar of local produce and contemporary cooking, praises Kathryn Lewis

the alverton

The Alverton reveals a long and eclectic history: it was the family home of Royal Horticultural Society president William Tweedy in the 1830s and then the digs of The Order of the Epiphany, which left in 1984.

When the latest owners moved in in 2012, they began a seemingly budgetless refurb which has preserved The Alverton’s architectural legacy while introducing newly-ordained geometric light fittings, copper roll top baths and embellished glass doors.

Seek refuge in the Chapel Suite, for instance, and you’ll sleep under original beamed ceilings and wake to colourful light streaming through stained glass panes, while still revelling in mod cons that include a thoroughly 21st century waterfall shower.

VISIT for a break from the usual city break. The original building – designed by the same team as Truro Cathedral – and its more recent additions are slap bang in the centre of town. And yet The Alverton’s location up a steep hill behind a canopy of tall trees means that guests quickly forget they’re just a short stroll from the lively hubbub of the Cornish capital.

DON’T VISIT for a quick pit stop. Find a bed for a post-event kip elsewhere – this sort of luxury is worth taking your time over.

WE LIKED sauntering across the courtyard to dinner at The Alverton’s smart-yet-relaxed restaurant. Forget heading into town to find a table at one of Truro’s eateries; head chef Simon George’s pleasingly seasonal dishes are some of the best for miles.

Cornish crab, beef and the daily catch all feature on a menu which blurs the line between fine dining and comfort food. On our visit, a soothing bowl of luscious crab linguine laced with chilli, ginger and coriander followed three perfectly positioned scallops on a bed of tart parsnip apple puree, grilled peaches and caramelised maple cured pancetta.

We ended the evening by way of Barbados via a punchy pineapple tarte tatin with coconut ice cream and a ridiculously good rum caramel sauce.

INSIDER’S TIP Steel yourself to leave your rolltop tub in time for a signature cocktail before dinner – bar manager Yohann curates a cracking list.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Crispy coated duck egg, wild mushrooms, crispy shallots and tarragon dressing

Main A trio of Viv’s prime beef – braised, seared, slow cooked

Pud Pineapple tarte tatin, coconut ice cream, rum caramel

3 courses from £26 B&B from £99

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