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Restaurant review: Backwell House

Published on August 23, 2019
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There aren’t many city-break destinations where you can rouse to the coo of wood pigeons, wander around a walled rose garden or breakfast in a sunny conservatory, says Kathryn Lewis

Backwell House

Strictly speaking, an escape at Backwell House isn’t really a city break. However, the Georgian manor’s unique location – a swift 15 minute drive from central Bristol and ten from the airport – warrants a pardon.

In fact, a stay in one of the nine effortlessly cool bedrooms offers weekenders the best of both worlds: a blanket of patchwork green fields rolling from the front door, the gastronomic draw of Bristol a short taxi ride away and the temptation of a “night in” courtesy of the talented kitchen team.

VISIT for country glamour, daaarling. Backwell House was a private residence until five years ago, and its latest owners have blended the Grade II-listed building’s original features with luxe interior design to create an authentically boutique hotel.

If you’re planning to stay for a couple of nights, booking Hobbs (each room is named after a family in Backwell’s history) is worth stretching the budget for. What’s an indulgent weekend away without an in-room copper tub, chaise longue and champagne ice bucket?

DON’T VISIT for a speedy airport stop off – this gorgeous house and its sweeping grounds deserve better than a rushed 6am check out. Make the most of your visit and indulge in a long morning soak in the roll-top bath, flick through a glossy magazine in the decadent lounge and take time over a breakfast of smoked salmon and creamy scrambled eggs.

WE LIKED the use of sustainable produce by head chef Andy Brooks. Every ingredient on the à la carte menu is carefully chosen with seasonality and provenance in mind.

On our summer visit, a starter of ham hock terrine starred pork from nearby Wrington alongside a nose-tinglingly punchy homemade piccalilli, while the Cornish cod main featured freshly plucked samphire and salty spheres of torched chorizo.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Ham hock terrine, piccalilli, capers, toasted ciabatta

Main Fillet of cod, chorizo, samphire, avocado salsa

Pud Lemon meringue pie

3 courses from £24.50

www.backwellhouse.co.uk

As featured in food Magazine’s September 2019 issue. 

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