It’s been ten years since Jamie Oliver launched his restaurant-come-social enterprise on the beach. Jo Rees swung by for lunch to see how it’s come of age
With its aim of using food to transform lives, Fifteen Cornwall has done some impressive work in its first decade; developing scores of cracking young chefs, kick starting the north coast food scene outside of Padstow and crafting some excellent, Italian-inspired dishes from local produce. It’s testament to the power of the Oliver brand and the sheer bloody-mindedness of everyone involved.
VISIT FOR the vibe: funky tattoo-inspired artwork on the walls, contemporary styling and a young front-of-house team who are on-the-ball.
Visit too for the food, of course, which is confidently casual and walks the rustic Italian/ fine dining/beach cool line like a tightrope trooper.
We started with beautifully simple antipasti: Looe dayboat squid and a spicy ‘nduja salami spread on sourdough toast being the lip-smacking stand-outs.
They were followed by a main of sweet, juicy pork belly, so slowly cooked that it was only held together by the crispest of crackling, and served with creamy polenta mash, cavolo nero (the healthy bit) and a spoonful of piquant salsa verde to cut the richness.
DON’T VISIT if you’re not up for feasting. Because with recommended seasonal cocktails to start, bread and olives, antipasti (too good to ignore), starters, mains and dessert, this is no time for crying ‘diet’.
WE LIKED the homemade tonic water and wine served by the carafe so you can drink something interesting in smaller quantities (500ml) if you’re driving.
INSIDER’S TIP As a thank you to customers for their support over ten years, the restaurant is running a special lunchtime offer of £26 for two courses with a complimentary third course, or £32 for three with a complimentary fourth course from its full lunch menu until December 17 (Monday to Saturday), and then from January 16 to February 11.
What we ate (lunch)
Antipasti ‘Nduja on toast, Looe dayboat squid
Mains Pork belly, polenta, cavolo nero and salsa verde
Dessert Ricotta doughnuts with chocolate sauce
Being immersed in a clifftop hot tub with a glass of bubbly while gazing over the wild Atlantic Ocean is just one of the many ways to unwind at this eco-chic coastal hotel