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Restaurant review: Lord Poulett Arms

Published on August 20, 2019
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Seize the opportunity to channel your inner rock star with an all-thrills-included overnighter at Lord Poulett Arms, says Kathryn Lewis

Lord Poulett Arms

Make-your-own breakfast Bloody Marys, bedside roll-top tubs in baby-pink hues and more champagne buckets dotted around the courtyard than you can shake a bag of ice at … one can only imagine that the design-savvy owners of Lord Poulett Arms had their dream rider in mind when they took on (and reworked) the yellow-stone pub in 2018.

The inn first welcomed punters in 1680, and its current incarnation intertwines contemporary luxuries (curved smart TVs in the rooms etc.) and statement design pieces with original slate floors, wonky ceilings and a collection of old cricket club photos.

VISIT for sustenance done with style. Head chef Philip Verden knows how to liven up a scotch egg (Korean spices and a kimchi side salad in this case), and his creativity is demonstrated right across the menu.

An eyebrow may raise at the unusual decision to pair Cornish hake with spätzle, yet the combination of meaty fish, lobster cream and Germanic pasta was wickedly moreish. A brownie and cherry sundae to follow was nothing like the usual childhood sugar fix, but instead served with boozy fruit layered between whipped cream, crushed amaretti biscuits and fudgy dark chocolate squares.

DON’T VISIT via public transport. This is rural with a capital R and will require a motor and in-built satnav.

WE LIKED all the spoiling touches. A vintage radio emitting Classic FM’s soothing hush welcomes guests to their room, the boules set in the garden enlivens pre-dinner drinks and a jar of sore-head remedies sits next to the Bloody Mary station at breakfast.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Panzanella salad, Isle of Wight tomatoes, roast peppers, rapeseed croutons

Main Pan roasted pork fillet, salt baked celeriac, mustard gratin, black garlic ketchup

Pud Lemon and lime posset, raspberries, raspberry sorbet, shortbread

3 courses from £21

www.lordpoulettarms.com

As featured in food Magazine’s September 2019 issue. 

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