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Restaurant review: Mount Haven Hotel, Marazion

Published on September 28, 2018
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A full refurb, stunning views of St Michael’s Mount and creative cooking make the hotel worth a revisit, discovers Jo Rees

mount haven hotel

‘Location, location, location’ goes the saying and it doesn’t get much more fabulous than this spot overlooking the swirling green waters of Mount’s Bay.

Bought two years ago by St Aubyn Estates (which also owns St Michael’s Mount and The Godolphin Arms), the hotel has just undergone phase two of its full interior refurb.

The exterior has had some love too: a beautiful little garden that’s luscious with succulents and coastal flora has been created and diners will soon get access to it when the restaurant is opened up to create an indoors/ outdoors eating experience.

However, food and drink is what draws in both hotel guests and the locals, so the estate hired Ross Sloan – previously sous chef to the highly regarded Jude Kereama of Kota in Porthleven – to make the dishes as delicious as the decor.

VISIT for cooking that gets creative with locally foraged finds (seaweed is a regular), home-pickled and preserved thrills and local (and often bespoke) veggies grown specially for Ross. The tasting menu is worth the investment – both time and money – and features small plates crafted with experience and presented with an eye for design. If you can’t manage the full multi-course-monty, plump for the fish of the day (landed at Newlyn) or lobster hauled in from waters off Penzance, just across the bay.

DON’T VISIT with mini-mes in tow. This is a grown-up retreat and perfect for a little relationship restoring. Mosey along the shoreline, putter over to the Mount on the tiny ferry and explore the local galleries before spending evenings feasting on Mr Sloan’s incredible edibles. Tip: get things off to a swinging start with a smoked bloody mary in the bar.

WE LIKED the floor-to-ceiling windows in the bathrooms that slip back to reveal your private (screened, thankfully) balcony for a bathing experience with views of the bay.

INSIDER’S TIP Stick around for brekkie, especially the homemade gingerbread granola with fresh fruit and greek yogurt.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Seared beef, lardo, blackberry mead, beet molasses, dark fruits, amaranth

Main Mallard, beets, jerusalem artichoke, smoked potato, redcurrants

Pud Citrus baked cheese, curd jelly, raspberry sorbet, pistachios, caramelised milk power

3 courses from £33.50 B&B from £120

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