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Restaurant review: Polurrian on the Lizard, Cornwall

Published on May 23, 2019
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Rosanna Rothery feasts while enjoying astonishing views, sparkling seas, a private beach and the South West Coast Path

Polurrian on the Lizard

Winston Churchill, Clark Gable and Guglielmo Marconi are just a few of the distinguished names who, over the years, have revelled in the Polurrian’s stunning location.

Once a fashionable railway hotel, a recent refurb has seen it metamorphose into a refreshingly relaxed destination for those wanting to kick-back and roam free.

VISIT if your clan has loads of energy to expend and loves outdoor adventure. The large terrace is surrounded by pretty clifftop lawns with a kids’ play area (home to giant chess, snakes and ladders, and hopscotch), an outdoor pool and tennis court. And if you’re the intrepid type you’ll want to sign up for kayaking, coasteering and paddle boarding.

While explorers splash in the surf, search rockpools at Polurrian Cove or set out from the South West Coast Path at the bottom of the garden, those preferring to collapse and be cosseted should book an Elemis treatment in the spa or wallow in the hot tub.

DON’T VISIT if you’re hankering after a fine dining experience. From retro seating and a customised waltzer in the bar to the funky burnt-orange lights in the dining room, there’s a fun and relaxed vibe running throughout this hotel. It extends to the food too. Platters and pizzas – wood-fired in the Gozney Oven – are reminiscent of lazy summer barbecues, while tapas starters and simple dishes fashioned from local produce (including lots of seafood) turn any oceanside get-together into a laid-back, casual affair.

WE LIKED the enormous bar and crescent-moon shaped lounge with its floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the sea. What a place to sit and watch the sun slipping behind Mount’s Bay while you sip a cocktail.

And no need to exaggerate how exhilarating it is to wake up in a soft bed with nothing to do except appreciate the vision of endless sky and ocean through the enormous panes.

INSIDER’S TIP Kick the day off with porridge pimped with Cornish clotted cream and marmalade.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Potted crab, sourdough
Main Roasted butternut squash, feta, baby leaf spinach, beetroot, toasted nuts and seeds
Pud Rum and chocolate crème brûlée

3 courses from £21

www.polurrianhotel.com

As featured in food Magazine’s June 2019 issue. 

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