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Restaurant review: Puro, Clevedon

Published on December 19, 2019
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Gourmet gems a short detour off the M5 are a rare find, so get Puro in Clevedon pinned on Google Maps, says Kathryn Lewis

Puro

When Dom and Alex Lamy took over this tucked-away restaurant in 2017, barely a scrap of the original decor or a single dish from the former menu survived their cull.

The name was the first thing to go (the new title, Puro, references the bottle of wine Dom and Alex shared on their first date) and the decor soon followed, to be replaced with contemporary rose gold fittings, soft grey furnishings and moody atmospheric lighting.

The hospitality-savvy couple knew they had to start from scratch if they were to make the restaurant their own. And, with the aim of earning accolades for their first solo venture, only the finest kitchen team and seasonal produce would do.

VISIT for food that wallops you in the chops with flavour. Time spent skippering the kitchen at The Pump House in Bristol left head chef Nick Fenlon with a taste for bold flavours and foraging, and at Puro he marries these with stonkingly fresh produce to create dishes that aren’t quickly forgotten.

On our visit, plump Cornish mussels sparred with their chorizo cider cream sauce for tastebuds’ attention, while impossibly light and fluffy homemade focaccia made easy work of clearing up the aftermath.

Mains, too, were a minefield of sensory blasts. Underbelly-pink onglet of local beef was served with layered anna potatoes, earthy chunks of beetroot, crispy breaded parsnips and a full-bodied red wine jus, while a haunch of venison enjoyed a pairing of smoky bone marrow, tart blackberries and nosetingling horseradish.

DON’T VISIT for a light feed. Nick’s dishes are generous in size as well as flavour, so if you succumb to the full three courses (warm banana bread with caramelised bananas, honeycomb and a boozy rum and raisin ice cream finished us off) buckle up for post-dinner proclamations of ‘I’m never eating again’.

WE LIKED the very tempting offer of three courses for just £20 on Wednesdays and Thursdays – it’s incredible value with that game-changing beef onglet (usually £17.50) on the line-up.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Cornish mussels, chorizo, leeks, cream, Somerset cider

Main Onglet of local beef, anna potatoes, crispy parsnips, root vegetables, red wine jus

Pud Warm banana bread, caramelised banana, honeycomb, rum and raisin ice cream

3 courses from £20

www.purorestaurant.co.uk

As featured in food Magazine’s Winter 2020 issue. 

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