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Restaurant review: Sign of the Angel, Lacock

Published on March 1, 2017
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Often overlooked in favour of its Cotswolds neighbours, Lacock is the quintessentially English village of American tourists’ dreams. And at its heart is a quaint country inn in which to fulfil the fantasy, says Kathryn Lewis

Sign of the Angel

Almost 600 years of history are laid bare in the Sign of the Angel’s wonky walls, low slung beams and sloping ceilings. However, an ultra luxe refurb with down feather duvets and fabulous furnishings, plus an ambitious chef in the kitchen, bring the National Trust property firmly into the 21st century.

VISIT FOR the thrills of restaurant dining with all the comfort and camaraderie of country inn eating. Head chef Jon Furby brings almost 30 years of experience to the table, crafting seasonal menus designed to push the boundaries of gastropub gormandizing. The result is artfully composed dishes – take the lightly blushed lamb shoulder embellished with ripe redcurrant couscous and bright butternut squash – which sing the praises of the locally sourced ingredients.

DON’T VISIT if you’re scared of things that go bump in the night. This is a 15th century building, so a few creaking floorboards and flickering lights are to be expected; though we’ll let you decide if something supernatural is the suspect.

WE LIKED the gorgeous gardens (perfect for sunning oneself in summer and indulging in the great British tradition of afternoon tea) and the restaurant’s crackling fire – best enjoyed with a large glass of red on a cosy winter evening.

INSIDER’S TIP A couple of nights in one of the five charming bedrooms above the inn makes a great base from which to explore nearby Bath and rural Wiltshire. Chef’s homemade flapjack waiting for weary wanderers on return is an added bonus.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Celeriac and wild mushroom lasagne, cashew nut crumb
Main Roasted fillet of cod thermidor, lobster risotto, broccoli
Dessert Carrot cake, candied pecans, blood orange

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