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Restaurant review: The Alverton, Truro

Published on March 26, 2020
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The restaurant at The Alverton makes the most of spring’s splendid storecupboard, writes Rosanna Rothery

Dessert at The Alverton Hotel in Truro

Signs of spring are everywhere: the first feathery fronds of fennel have appeared, lambs frisk in verdant fields, Cornish seas brim with seafood, and farmers’ markets display vivid green shoots and leaves.

The season offers a plethora of pleasures to perk up our plates and appetites but, for those living or staying in the heart of the city, there are few places like The Alverton at which to experience them.

A unique feature of this Grade II- listed hotel is that you can dawdle over a delicious drawn-out dinner or long lunch while looking out over acres of lush garden. The hotel’s rolling grounds showcase the glories of nature – including rare flora – just a 10 minute walk from Truro’s main shopping drag.

VISIT for a charming yet uber relaxed dining experience which will have you embracing spring’s predictably unpredictable weather. On a sunny day take advantage of seating on the terrace and enjoy your first alfresco lunch of the year. If April showers abound, delight in a comforting repast while hunkered down in the smart dining room.

Whatever the skies, the kitchen team serve food to improve your mood with dishes crafted from everything that’s fresh and fabulous from the county’s fields, gardens and seas.

You’ll feel cossetted and nourished by dishes like seafood assiette (salmon, monkfish tail, scallop and prawn in a bouillabaisse sauce with braised fennel), while scrumptious seasonal flavours such as herb-encrusted lamb shoulder with dauphinoise potatoes, spiced tomato chutney and goat’s cheese will be high on your list of reasons to be cheerful. Sweet, light and luscious puddings, like chocolate-glazed mint parfait, are a further mood boosters.

DON’T VISIT expecting a run-of-the-mill city hotel. With its long and winding driveway, imposing architecture and mature gardens, The Alverton is so much more than a convenient base from which to explore the county’s attractions. Locals and residents alike head here for an oasis of excellent food and contemporary cocktails.

WE LIKED the individuality and charm of this historically fascinating hotel which in previous incarnations was a convent and, before that, the private home of William Tweedy, President of the Royal Horticultural Society. Original features such as a bell tower, mullion windows, curved archways and ivy-clad walls add character and atmosphere while a certain old-meets- new liberty with the decor results in a quirky mashup of modern and heritage.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter

Pork knuckle, smoked bratwurst and jalapeno ballotine, apricot gel, parmesan pastry, micro salad

Main

Chicken supreme with truffle mash, creamed leeks, truffle chicken roll, sauce

Pud

Baked pineapple, muscovado, rum cake, mascarpone cream, pineapple crisp

From £34 per person

www.thealverton.co.uk

As featured in food Magazine’s April 2020 issue. 

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