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Restaurant review: The Angel – Taste of Devon

Published on April 26, 2019
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This celebrated Dartmouth restaurant first came to fame under pioneering chef Joyce Molyneux (one of the first women to hold a Michelin star) and is now enjoying a new era with another female culinary talent at the pass, writes Rosanna Rothery

The Angel – Taste of Devon

Former MasterChef: The Professionals finalist Elly Wentworth, who earned her stripes at Michelin starred Lucknam Park, is the rising talent giving this iconic restaurant wings once more.

VISIT to be transported to a heavenly realm. From the rice cracker canapés with curried mayonnaise and caviar to the elegant Angel motif on the table linen, every small detail is fashioned with artistry and beauty.

A starter of beetroot tart with poppy seed goat’s curd, beetroot jam and sorrel (served theatrically on a raised platter) is far too dainty to greedily decimate with a fork. A few gentle scoops, however, reveal zinging flavours that rival the eye-catching design.

Equally enlightening is the employment of aubergine pickle and artichoke jus which leads tenderly cooked Dartmoor Shepherd lamb in a new direction.

Fallen angels should save room for pudding, as a feather-light apple soufflé with maple and walnut ice cream, and indulgent “chocolate bar” with layers of lime caramel and pistachio are deserving of a chorus of horn-tooting seraphim.

DON’T VISIT for swanky surrounds. The interior is actually a pleasingly plain canvas for the elegant food.

WE LIKED the ethic that runs throughout: Elly has forged relationships with local farmers who rear traditional Devon breeds, as well as the region’s foragers and fishermen.

The friendly team take as much care over guests’ comfort as they do in the sourcing, cooking and presentation of the food. If you’re overwhelmed by the length of the impressive drinks list, don’t feel intimidated about putting them on the spot and getting a recommendation.

INSIDER’S TIP Hand baked milk rolls are divine with either miso or sea salt butter.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Beetroot tart, poppy seed goat’s curd, beetroot jam, sorrel
Main Braised halibut, parsley and crab raviolo, charred gem, lettuce cream
Pud Chocolate bar, lime caramel, pistachio, sea salt ice cream

3 courses from £36.50

www.theangeldartmouth.co.uk

As featured in food Magazine’s May 2019 issue. 

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