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Restaurant review: The Greenbank, Falmouth

Published on June 24, 2019
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Don’t be too distracted by the dazzling views at this stylish maritime hotel, says Rosanna Rothery, as failure to tear your gaze away puts you in danger of missing its other terrific assets

The Greenbank

It’s fair to say that executive chef Nick Hodges and team have their work cut out to divert diners’ attention from the glorious vista of Falmouth’s salty port. The Water’s Edge restaurant’s bewitching position makes for an ever-changing panorama of posh yachts, dinky trawlers and naval vessels.

In fact, only the pull of some exceptionally good cooking and the most eye-catching of interiors can distract from natural spectacles such as a pair of handsome swans gliding upon sun-dappled waters. Luckily, the hotel restaurant delivers on many fronts.

VISIT for gratifyingly good food served in chic, nautical surrounds. The Greenbank hotel dates back to the 1640s and, although steeped in history, exudes contemporary elegance.

As the water laps the slipway wall, it seems natural to incline towards fish and seafood so it’s pleasing to discover plenty of dishes crafted around the local fishermen’s catch.

Every detail is unapologetically sumptuous: buttery root veg is swathed in parsley and parmesan, fine beans baptised in truffle mustard, bread laden with almonds and sultanas, while chicken breast comes crammed with chorizo. And our whole sea bass, roasted with aromatic rosemary and the salty tang of samphire, was the very essence of summer.

DON’T VISIT for lightweight dining: supper is a lavish affair. For simpler eating, enjoy a leisurely lunch at the hotel’s waterfront pub, The Working Boat.

WE LIKED the chef’s indulgent chocolate plate, an extraordinary extravaganza of cocoa-tastic exuberance which calls upon every ounce of a chocoholic’s stamina to completely polish off. The good stuff comes in a multitude of guises including delice, brownie, crémeux, mousse and tuille, all accompanied by salted caramel ice cream and fresh raspberries. Willy Wonka would doff his top hat in respect.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Asparagus and beetroot arancini, beetroot salsa, beetroot crisps

Main Chicken and chorizo ballotine, olive rosti, courgette ratatouille, tomato emulsion

Pud Apple pavé, blackcurrent sorbet, hazelnut crumble, bramble berries

3 courses from £28

www.greenbank-hotel.co.uk

As featured in food Magazine’s July and August 2019 issue. 

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