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Restaurant review: The Horn of Plenty, Devon

Published on July 18, 2016
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With its cornucopia of delightful ingredients, from luxurious comfort to drop-dead-gorgeous dining, this country house hotel has plenty of reasons to blow its own horn

The Horn of Plenty

Long established as one of the South West’s destinations for a gourmet getaway, The Horn was where Sonia Stevenson became the first British woman to be awarded a Michelin star. Current owners Julie and Damien Leivers took over in 2010, bringing it back to its former glory with a glamorous refit and the addition of six contemporary Coach House bedrooms. And this summer the hotel will enter a new era as new head chef Ashleigh Wright takes over from the talented Scott Paton..

VISIT FOR consistency. Much underrated as a virtue, it’s what separates the good from the excellent, and in the case of our visit, consistency of quality was the thread that ran through everything. The three AA rosette food was seriously impressive (all six courses), the service on point (smart but friendly), the décor beautiful and rooms comfortable. That’s not easy to pull off.

DON’T VISIT for a funky vibe – it’s rather grown up and elegant.

WE LIKED the stunning views of the Tamar Valley with Disney-esque rabbits, thrushes and a stoat frolicking in the garden as we breakfasted.

INSIDER’S TIP Take your after-dinner coffee on one of the fireside lounge sofas and fight over your fair share of the particularly pleasing petit fours.

What we ate (dinner)
Starter Exmouth crab salad, curry, mango and cardamom
Mains Turbot, lobster, heritage carrot, nasturtium and Nepalese pepper
Pud Alphonso mango mousse, passion fruit and coconut sorbet

Jo Rees

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