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Restaurant review: The Square at Porthleven

Published on April 26, 2019
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The charm of a quintessential Cornish fishing village is all the more appealing when you know a great little place for supper, writes Rosanna Rothery

The Square at Porthleven

On the corner of Porthleven’s pretty horseshoe harbour, this modest, laidback restaurant offers more than just a square meal.

For those evenings when you don’t fancy glamming up but want to eat well, the casual, family-run joint is the answer to your prayers. The surroundings are perfectly pleasant but not OTT – yet the food is excellent.

VISIT for what might be termed a bistro-nomique experience. Owners Anna and Stew Eddy know exactly what they’re doing when it comes to relaxed gourmet dining: the food is cheffy enough to excite the palate (and arrives at the table looking as divine as you could possibly wish), yet the overall vibe is thoroughly relaxed.

And while any Cornish restaurant worth its salt has fresh-as-can-be seafood on the menu, Stew (who has worked alongside Michael Caines and Raymond Blanc) and chef Bryok Williams can be relied upon to do it absolute justice. They’re also dab hands when it comes to getting the best from county-reared duck, pork and beef.

That’s not to suggest that this Cornish restaurant doesn’t look to other parts of the globe for inspiration: a seafood and tiger prawn Goan-style curry, with rich pineapple and mango sauce, has a zesty flavour which reveals increasingly spicy depth with each mouthful.

DON’T VISIT for tablecloths, flowers or a work-from-the-outside-in cutlery set-up. It’s hearty lip-smackingly good food that packs out this restaurant. Holidaymakers head here to sample the county’s produce while locals drop by to indulge in a taste of home.

WE LIKED the cool companions to Stew’s homemade puds. Made-on-the- premises ice creams and sorbets (also sold in the adjoining deli) are served alongside dark chocolate and almond brownie, and toffee-apple sticky ginger cake. There’s also a good wine list.

INSIDER’S TIP Enjoy a lunchtime crab sarnie on the sunny terrace with harbour views.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Cornish duck liver, port and truffle pâté, fig and apple chutney, pickled veg, toast
Main Slow cooked Primrose Herd pork belly, treacle glaze, black pudding, greens, puy lentils, champ potato cake, apple sauce
Pud Dark chocolate and almond brownie, Dead Man’s raisins, coffee cream, salted caramel sauce, coffee mocha ice cream

3 courses from £22.90


As featured in food Magazine’s May 2019 issue.

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