With its photo-precision presentation and a thoroughly Instagrammable interior, Underwood is the exception to the “no phones at the table” rule, says Kathryn Lewis
Since the dawn of the smartphone, couples, families and friends have fought over its presence at the dining table. While many pooh-pooh its appearance, you have our full backing to rock the boat, dive into your pocket and snap a few pictures at Underwood.
It’s not just the immaculate plating that’s on point; the marriage of bold turquoise walls, dark-wood tables and intriguing artwork is straight out of the pages of a glossy interiors mag. To not post an image (or five) of your evening at Underwood would be a disservice to the design- savvy duo (brother and sister team Andrew and Inna Dombrowski) who created it.
VISIT for crowd-pleasing food which tastes as good as it looks. Chef patron Andrew ensures there’s something for everyone on his hefty seasonal menus, adding artistry and creative intuition to elevate classics such as beef wellington and pan-fried scallops.
On our visit, a humble wedge of hispi cabbage was a surprise star course. Expertly grilled until butter- soft on the inside and suitably charred on the edges, then topped with the creamy-salty bite of Bath blue cheese and crunch of bronzed hazelnuts, the starter demonstrated that delicious things don’t require extravagant ingredients.
DON’T VISIT be deterred if the place looks packed out. The cosy velvet-banquette-lined lounge bar conceals two spacious dining rooms below pavement level, both with unrivalled views over Pulteney Weir.
WE LIKED the menu set-up which allows diners to mix and match sides with their main courses. We’d recommend ordering four or five for the table (doubling up on the incredible triple-cooked chips) and sharing with your fellow diners.
What we ate (dinner)
Grilled hispi cabbage, Bath blue cheese, crushed hazelnuts
Sea bass, winter ratatouille, jerusalem artichoke puree, white wine velouté
From £18 per person
As featured in food Magazine’s April 2020 issue.