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Restaurant review: Water's Edge at The Greenbank

Published on July 20, 2017
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This well-fed town isn’t short of phenomenal vantage points, yet the views to be savoured over supper at the Water’s Edge Restaurant are arguably some of the best Falmouth has to offer, observes Kathryn Lewis

Water's Edge restaurant

A previous haunt of salty sea dogs and weary wanderers, The Greenbank Hotel has watched over Falmouth’s historic harbour for almost 400 years. And while its guests are now nomadic weekenders instead of weathered captains, Cornwall’s fleet of fishermen are still honoured in a menu swimming with the latest catch.

VISIT FOR a hotel restaurant that delivers on standard without skimping on choice.

On an early summer’s evening, it’s not simply residents who are to be found supping in the smart dining quarters: neighbouring tables harbour locals, daytrippers and tourists pondering the lengthy line-up from executive chef Nick Hodges.

With the water a toe’s dip from the table, we would have justified seafood at every course if convention had allowed. The tian of white and brown Cornish crab dressed with a delicate dill mayo went down swimmingly to start, as did the meaty hunk of monkfish on fiery chorizo and spinach hash that followed. Shimmering mackerel further demonstrated Nick’s forte with fish, while a tangy summer fruit crumble smothered in crème anglais and crowned with a baby apple doughnut brought the evening to a delicious close.

DON’T VISIT for hearty haddock ’n’ chips and mussels doused in cider: for relaxed grub head to The Working Boat pub downstairs.

WE LIKED the yatchy cocktail bar surrounded by more of those dreamy vistas. Two boozy concoctions for a tenner has earned The Greenbank a reputation as the place to be on a Friday evening in Falmouth.

INSIDER’S TIP Book a pre-dinner paddle board yoga class held in the harbour for ultimate Cornish-cool kudos.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Dippy duck egg, asparagus spears, sunflower seed bread sticks
Main Monkfish fillet, chorizo spinach hash, sea greens, brown shrimp vinaigrette
Dessert Summer crumble of bramley apples, hedgerow berries, crème anglais, apple doughnut, clotted cream

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