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Restaurant review: Wild Garlic, Nailsworth

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It may have cosy lodgings and a quaint town setting, but with Matthew Beardshall’s creative cooking, this is no traditional Cotswolds experience

Wild Garlic

After working under Marcus Wareing and a stint at Gordon Ramsay’s flagship restaurant, Matthew opened the Wild Garlic Restaurant with Rooms with his wife Hannah in 2007, and has been cranking up the innovation levels ever since.

VISIT FOR general manager Henry Bannister’s flawless, friendly service and the chef patron’s fantastic food.

Don’t be fooled by the stripped-back names of the dishes, as Matthew likes to keep diners guessing when it comes to his inventive tasting menus. For example, ‘burnt cabbage’ is a joyous explosion of mint, sage and smoked eel between fine layers of smoky charred leaves and a silky topping of miso butter.

DON’T VISIT for a big gathering or family party. This is an intimate dining space with intelligently put together food that’s worthy of guests’ full attention.

WE LIKED the invitingly cosy and classic Cotswolds bedrooms above the restaurant. With sink-into-it soft bedding, our slumber can only be described as having reached godly status, plus the Aladdin’s cave of foodie treats (olives, biscotti and handmade chocolates) is an undisputed crowd-pleaser.

INSIDER’S TIP pop by at lunchtime for an informal feast of three tapas dishes in the lounge for just £10. It’s the perfect excuse to splash out on an equally delicious accompanying bottle.

What we ate and drank (evening tasting menu)

Dom’s wild mushrooms
Burnt cabbage
Beef tongue in cheek
60 month gouda, caramel and walnut
Pickled ginger and rhubarb crumble
Deep fried chocolate rice pudding and mint ice cream

Kathryn Lewis

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