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Review: Devon Food Movement, Lamb at Longdown

Published on February 8, 2019
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Popping up in rural locations across the county, Devon’s most talked about supper club is redefining hyperlocal dining, says Sophie Ellis

Luke's air dried pork charcuterie

Following a successful career at The Treby Arms in Sparkwell, experienced chef Luke Fearon is no stranger to local and seasonal ingredients. But at his latest venture, Devon Food Movement, he’s upped the ante and ring-fenced the produce stocking his small plates to a five-mile radius. We joined the party at the pop-up’s fourth collaboration with Dolton Lodge at The Lamb at Longdown. 

VISIT FOR gastro-pub food that’s been bumped up to fine dining class. Dishes such as the blushed beef fillet with butternut squash, broccoli and Dartmoor mushroom sauce receive a technical and presentation upgrade while still delivering on familiar flavour combos.  

Luke admits that ‘some dishes can be divisive’, though we loved potentially opinion-splitting courses like the salted pheasant egg yolk with salami ragu and white bean velouté – served in an eggshell for extra wow factor.

DON’T VISIT for a night out with the kids. The smart/casual setting calls for an evening with friends and a set line-up of dishes rules out picky eaters.

WE LIKED the handmade extras and little touches. Sloe gin in the welcome cocktail was made by Luke and the pork belly and shoulder home-cured. The soda bread – loaded with freshly whipped whey butter – was another winner. Loaves are proved each morning at The Lamb and put Avocet Ale offcuts from the bar to good use.

INSIDER’S TIP Book a taxi (or bribe for a lift) home and take advantage of the wine flight.

What we ate (tasting menu)

Charcuterie – air-dried pork shoulder and belly

Plymouth crab cakes, Wembury seaweed mayonnaise

Red Ruby beef tartare, tapioca, puffed wheat

Exeter Ale soda bread, whipped whey butter

Salted pheasant egg yolk, pheasant salami ragu, aerated white bean velouté

Wood pigeon, celeriac puree, cabbage, hazelnut sauce

Red Ruby beef fillet, butternut squash, broccoli, Dartmoor mushroom sauce

Yoghurt and vanilla pannacotta, damson granita

Winter spiced apple cake

Penny bun fudge, Exe Coffee Roasters’ bonbon

£40 per person, including a welcome cocktail

Find out where the Devon Food Movement will be popping up next here.

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