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Review: Seadog pop-up, Exmoor

Published on August 16, 2018
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Racking up rave reviews from their mobile kitchen over the last five years, seafood specialists Beth Newscome and Jim Coslett of Seadog know how to host a stonking pop-up event. Braving the wild Exmoor roads, Selena Young ventured to National Trust’s Kipscombe Farm for a fishy feast in the property’s ancient tithe barn

Seadog at Exmoor

VISIT for a fabulous feast of fresh catches. Scrumptious seafood came in the form of creamy Lundy lobster croquette with preserved fennel, sorrel and aioli. The pièce de résistance, however, was whole baked mackerel seasoned with lemon zest and served with tomato and nectarine panzanella which gave it a delicate flavour reminiscent of summer by the sea.

Turns out fish fanatics also know how to entice sweet-toothed diners. The pineapple, sage, blackberry and cherry cheesecake was not only beautifully presented but completely irresistible (think luscious layers of whole cherries and rich cream cheese resting on a crumbly digestive base).

DON’T VISIT for a sanctuary of solitude. Seadog events mean happy banter with chilled vibes: the long benches, blankets, shared snacking and lack of phone signal provides an opportunity for a good chinwag with fellow diners and a chance to get cosy.

WE LIKED the charming setting: open-air kitchen, hum of chatter and low-lit glow emanating from the bronzed candelabras and sweeping fairy lights. The idyllic surroundings reminded us of times gone by – the joy of communal feasting and simplistic seafood suppers in the countryside.

INSIDER’S TIP Leave a little early to soak in the pastoral pleasures of the moorlands and keep your eyes peeled for wildlife wandering the moors (we not only incurred a traffic jam behind a herd of sheep but also had an encounter with a tenacious stag).

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Lundy lobster croquette with preserved fennel, sorrel and aioli

Main Whole baked local mackerel with lemon, Kipscombe garden herbs, heritage tomato and nectarine panzanella, Braunton new potato, roasted pepper and chorizo salad, summer courgettes and broad beans.

Pud Pineapple, sage, blackberry and cherry cheesecake

Three courses £35 

Don’t miss Seadog’s next pop-up, Bennett’s Mouth Seafood Feast Experience, on August 26.


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