Country pubs live and die by a holy trinity: hearty dishes featuring the local crop, a strong selection of regional ales and roaring log fires, says Kathryn Lewis
Since taking over their Grade II-listed pub in 2006, Mark Tarry’s seasonal cookery and Adele Tarry’s homely hospitality have mustered a local following for a foodie fill after a yomp across the nearby Blackdown Hills.
VISIT for a relaxed family lunch or cosy date night dinner.
With a home-from-home feel and friendly vibe, dining with the whole tribe comes without the worry of snooty table neighbours or how to placate fussy mini foodies. Mark has roadtested the children’s menu on his own kids, giving macaroni cheese and fish goujons a parent-pleasing homemade makeover.
Long lazy suppers with someone special are, however, best embarked upon minus the car. The well thought-through wine list – handily divided into styles: opulent, complex, supple and finesse – offers an entertaining experience.
Accompany your chilled glass of vino with a steaming bowl of St Austell mussels, follow with naturally smoked haddock with colcannon mash and finish with warm poached pears bathed in rich chocolate sauce. And after that lot, a decent stomp home will be a welcome prospect.
DON’T VISIT for flash food. This is rustic pub grub in portions fit for refuelling ravenous visitors post-winter walk.
WE LIKED the well fed specials board. If classic crowd pleasers such as slow-roasted belly pork or crumbly steak and kidney shortcrust pie don’t pique your appetite, there’s a hearty bill of backups on the seasonally adjusted board.
INSIDER’S TIP From plonk-paired suppers to themed evenings from afar, there’s always something delicious going down at The Globe. Follow for info on the next event.
What we ate (dinner)
Starter Slow roasted oxtail croquettes, parsnip puree, carrot crisps
Main Pheasant breast wrapped in bacon, sautéed green beans, redcurrant sauce
Pud Poached pear, dark chocolate sauce, vanilla ice cream
3 courses from £24.95