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Review: The Rising Sun, Truro

Published on January 3, 2018
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Gastro grub, ace ales, a wicked wine list and barrels of bonhomie have turned The Rising Sun, a once derelict pub, into a thriving dining destination, writes Rosanna Rothery

Rising Sun Truro

Locals got right behind Tom and Katie Hannon when, three years ago, they set out to transform The Rising Sun into a happening hostelry. And the sociable babble resounding from every corner of the bar and restaurant is testament to their success.

VISIT for a pub catering for all kinds of punters. Whether you’re a traditionalist (cod and chips) or a novelty seeker (the boozy Guinness gravy splashed over braised beef and dauphinoise potatoes is knockout), the same careful sourcing goes into each dish.

Chef Tom pours his enthusiasm for Cornish produce and seasonal food into an ever-evolving menu. Fish is landed at Newlyn and Fowey, artisan breads baked at Clare’s Cottage and free-range duck reared at nearby Terras Farm. Katie, meanwhile, curates a stonking wine list, choosing bottles from large iconic vineyards as well as championing small artisan producers.

DON’T VISIT for city slick. Despite Truro’s cafes and shops being just a short stroll down the hill, there’s a rural village pub vibe going on here.

WE LIKED the ambiance. Ale lovers cosy up in the fireside alcove quaffing Baa Baa or Porthleven, families flock here for Tom’s Sunday roasts and small parties pore over menus that are resolutely Cornish and seasonal.

INSIDER’S TIP Try Tom’s signature fondant: intensely chocolatey with a meltingly soft centre flanked with homemade black cherry ice cream and honeycomb.

What we ate (dinner)

Starter Panfried Cornish scallops, lime and apple purees, bhaji
Main Wilted spinach, wild mushroom and potato rosti stack, white wine cream
Pud Orange pannacotta, orange jelly, homemade churros

3 courses from £22.50

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