Jo Rees enjoys a dose of sea air and vintage glamour at a hotel in the midst of a dramatic transformation
What’s the skinny?
A grand Victorian hotel that’s been a seafront fixture for 160 years, The Falmouth was no-one’s idea of an exciting newcomer. However, as a result of being bought by the hotel group that owns The Greenbank (also in Falmouth) and The Alverton (Truro), it’s suddenly in the midst of dramatic transformation.
Seeing the beauty in the old girl and deciding she deserved to be spruced up for the next generation of pleasure-trippers, the new team have given her a fresh lease of life. Happily, that hasn’t involved stripping out her charm, just polishing her vintage good looks and leaning into a particular moment in the hotel’s history. Imagine a seaside jaunt to Falmouth in the mid 1920s and you’ve conjured the spirit of the place.
Why visit?
Step through potted palms into a terrazzo-tiled hallway of sweeping arches revealing glimpses of turquoise waters beyond huge windows. It’s a deliciously old-school entrance that’s been restored to its former glory.
In the airy lounge and bar, guests are enveloped by lush planting, comfy sofas, paintings of 1920s bathers, and curations of books paired with vintage curios. A period palette of pistachio green and blush pink in the downstairs areas references the building’s past without tipping into pastiche.
In the restaurant, groups cluster to feast on finger sandwiches and warm scones from towering stands. In the lounge, guests loll with magazines and coffee, while couples clink glasses of fizz.
Upstairs, it’s more a case of ‘work in progress’. At the time of our visit, only five bedrooms had been completely refurbished, so the transformation is still underway – and will be for a while as it’s a capacious building. Our spacious room was one of the newly zhuzhed, featuring a beautiful bathroom furnished with period-style fittings and a large bed dressed in crisp white linen.
Although Falmouth has loads of good restaurants, visitors don’t need to leave the building to eat well. The hotel has its own restaurant, which serves modern British dishes. Other attractions include a pool, gym and a couple of treatment rooms tucked away at basement level. Unfurling under the expert hands of a masseuse before dinner is a treat, but those visiting in summer would undoubtedly want to spend as much time outdoors as possible, as the surrounding seascape is especially lovely.
The hotel overlooks Castle Beach, while a short walk along the seafront reveals soft-sanded Gyllyngvase Beach with its smart cafe. From there, the South West Coast Path beckons to Maenporth and beyond. Turn left from the hotel and you can stroll to Pendennis Castle. Or hop on the little passenger ferry, which departs from the Prince of Wales Pier and putters round to St Mawes (the journey takes about 20 minutes). It’s the most charming way to travel, especially on a calm summer morning when the water is glassy and still.
Falmouth itself is a brilliant base: arty, fun and full of independent bars, restaurants and shops. Boredom won’t get a look-in.
When to visit
We visited during an unseasonably sunny weekend in March. The sight of a deep blue sky hanging over the hotel’s lush front lawn – and the miles of ocean beyond – provided a tantalising glimpse of just how good this place must be in high season. If it had been warm enough for alfresco drinks or to lounge on our private balcony overlooking the bay, we’d have been out there in a shot.
Verdict
This is a fun spot that combines vintage glamour with an easygoing vibe. It’s like the setting for an Agatha Christie novel – without the aggravation of discovering a body. Whether because of the art-student waiting staff in its restaurant or Falmouth’s pleasing lack of formality, the hotel feels relaxed and welcoming.
Recommend to friends?
Yes. For charm and jolly seaside vibes served with a dose of retro glamour. Just aim to book one of the newly refurbished rooms if you can (more are being finished all the time).
