Rosanna Rothery discovers a picturesque 16th-century Dorset inn with an up-and-coming chef who should be on your radar
If Dorset’s Cerne Abbas isn’t on your radar, allow me to let you in on the secret. With its rows of quaint stone houses and ancient abbey (not to mention the chalk figure of a rude giant cut into a nearby hill), it’s the kind of village that any location scout for English period dramas should have in their little black book. It’s certainly a rival to Wiltshire’s better known National Trust-owned Lacock, which always garners a serious amount of screen time.
In the centre of the village sits the New Inn, a charming 16th-century coaching house, run by one of the most welcoming couples in hospitality. With their attention to detail, Annette Beardsmore and Julian Dove make you feel like a cherished guest rather than just another customer (a subtle but important distinction).
Conversations and Dorset ales flow freely at this village pub, which offers the kind of IRL bonhomie many crave in an age of screens and soundbites.
A fervent forager heads up the kitchen, crafting the sort of appetising and artistic fare that’s worth travelling for. Neal Chainey began his career, aged 15, as an apprentice at the New Inn before working in Australia and Switzerland. Later, with his wife Catriona, he ran bistro Found in Dorchester, before making a return to the New Inn full of renewed vision and enthusiasm.
While it’s perfectly possible to sample Neal’s excellent handiwork in the New Inn’s menu of elevated pub classics, such as the 28-day-aged sirloin steak or the smash burger, his talent is best showcased in the fine-dining menu. We recommend starting by nibbling a Dorset Red beignet dotted with walnut pesto while you peruse the menu. Who doesn’t love a pillowy soft bun laden with smoky melted cheese?
Light, fresh and clean is a good maxim for any starter. With this in mind, we opted for the cured Houghton Springs trout tartare with blood orange, tapioca and miso emulsion. It satisfied all kinds of cravings (sweet, salty, tangy and umami) in a single delectable forkful. The tapioca crisp accompaniment added contrasting crunch.
Our other starter, a braised beef-shin croquette with black garlic emulsion and pickled quince, tarragon, was equally fabulous – and remarkably light, given its deep savoury richness.
Mains ranged from a sumptuously on-point Lulworth Estate venison loin to a risotto revealing the cottage-garden flavours of New Forest asparagus, Jersey Royals, White Lake goat curd and garden herbs.
Each dish looked as sophisticated as it tasted and was nicely matched by an array of tipples from Julian’s apothecary of mood-elevating wines. Chocoholics shouldn’t leave without trying the dark chocolate tart, its crumbly biscuit base a winning foil for a rich mousse offset with coffee crémeux and vanilla crème fraîche.
There’s no doubt that Chainey is one to watch, but those thinking of putting the New Inn on their hit list may also be swayed by the pub’s other credentials: a suntrap courtyard, a beer garden and an array of accommodation, including converted outbuildings providing split-level suites with roll-top baths and funky four-posters.
Stay the night and fortify yourself with the inn’s fine Dorset brekkie before exploring the village walk. It leads to the best viewing point to gawp at one of the UK’s largest (and most talked about) hill figures.
