Rosanna Rothery discovers an oasis of style at Sydney’s in the centre of Bath
Wallowing in the waters at Thermae Bath Spa, inspecting the remains at the historic Roman Baths or admiring the palatial sweep of the Royal Crescent are de rigueur when you’re a tourist in Bath. But where should you head when hunger and sightseeing fatigue kick in and you’ve got a family with diverse appetites to satisfy?
While the peckish throng tend to plonk themselves down in cafes and restaurants in and around Milsom Street (the picturesque shopping thoroughfare) or Walcot Street (the browsable artisan quarter), those in the know head a few streets away to Sydney’s, in quieter Monmouth Place.
Family welcome
The cheerful yet chic surroundings of this restaurant can’t fail to turn any jaunt to the city into a special occasion.
If the weather is conducive, the balcony is a super spot for semi-alfresco dining. Decked out with verdant plants and soothing shades of green, it’s complemented by the surrounding soft hue of Bath’s buildings. Downstairs, an uber-glam bar and seating area set the scene for smart sipping.
It’s the warm and friendly atmosphere, though, that sets this restaurant apart. Sydney’s is the younger sister to The Scallop Shell next door, and both restaurants are owned by Garry and Lisa Rosser. Sydney’s is named after Lisa’s dad, who is described on the menu as having been ‘a big-hearted family man who loved nothing more than bringing people together.’
The team keep that spirit alive with friendly yet on-point service. While we were there, both floors were buzzing with groups of families and friends enjoying the bonhomie.
Lunch like a local
If you go during the daytime, with little mouths to feed, the midday bun is a brilliant hunger buster. Fillings change with the season but the milk bun houses the likes of crisp-fried haddock goujons with tartare sauce, or cumberland sausage with wholegrain mustard mayonnaise. Served with a hearty portion of chips, it’s the ultimate crowdpleaser.
Sunday’s ample sharing roast, too, is a hit with families. Meats include the likes of Herefordshire beef sirloin, Pocock’s Poultry chicken and Somerset pork belly with all the trimmings.
Come evening, this former pub specialises in British and Mediterranean classics and South West seafood. This is a much more grown-up affair, although children are welcome until 9.30pm. When we visited, seafood dishes included silver mullet fillet, Cornish monkfish tail and Weymouth Bay lobster. The kitchen team, headed by chef Bradley Moseley, put the emphasis on sun-soaked flavours, seasonal seafood and nostalgic classics.
A meal here is a hearty reward after a day’s sightseeing and shopping. Even more so when you bookend your main with a starter of grilled black pudding, ham hock and fried hen egg and an indulgent pudding such as a tangy lemon posset with caramelised blueberries. It’s the kind of fare to set you up for another day gawping at grandiose Georgian architecture and making the most of a city that boasts rare double UNESCO World Heritage status.
