Mussels in cider

Cockles 250g
Mussels 500g
Clams 250g
Cold-pressed rapeseed oil 2 tbsp
Brown onion or banana shallot 1, finely chopped
Celery 2 sticks, diced into 5mm cubes
Carrot 1, diced into 5mm cubes
Leek 1, green parts removed, diced into 5mm cubes
Celeriac ¼, diced into 5mm cubes
Bay leaf 1
Garlic butter 50g
Dry local cider 300ml
Double cream or crème fraîche
Chardonnay vinegar 10ml
Parsley chopped
Lovage chopped

1. Wash the shellfish separately. Start by soaking the cockles in cold, slow-running water to remove any sediment or sand.
2. Remove the beards of the mussels, then run them under cold water.
3. Thoroughly wash the clams under cold running water.
4. Put a large pan (which has a lid) over a medium heat. Add the rapeseed oil, wait for it to warm up, then add the vegetables and bay leaf. Add a tablespoon of water, pop the lid on and allow the vegetables to sweat.
5. When the vegetables start to soften, add the garlic butter and put the lid on for another minute.
6. Add the clams, cockles and cider. Put the lid back on and give the pan a good shake. Allow the cider to begin to evaporate and turn into steam, which will cook the shellfish.
7. After another minute, add the mussels, return the lid and give the pan another shake. Leave the shellfish to cook for another minute.
8. Take the lid off, stir everything well with a slotted spoon and check all the shells are open. The shellfish should be nicely coloured and not translucent – if any of the fish is translucent or the shells unopened, put the lid back on and cook for another minute.
9. Take the lid off and, with a slotted spoon, remove the shellfish and place them into serving bowls.
10. Put the vegetables back on the heat and reduce the liquid by a third.
11. Add a generous crack of black pepper, the cream and vinegar, and stir to combine. Top with parsley and lovage.
12. Spoon the mixture over the hot shellfish. Serve with a slice of lightly toasted sourdough.