As Darts Farm marks its 55th anniversary, we look at how the working farm near Exeter became one of the UK’s most influential champions of local, seasonal and community-led food
When Darts Farm opened its gates to customers as a pick-your-own-produce experience in 1971, the idea that a farm could be a place to shop, eat, linger, be pampered and connect with others was quite unimaginable. However, this roadside farm shop was the Dart family’s first step in rewriting the rulebook around what a farm could be.
‘Our father, Ronald, was one of the first farmers in the UK to introduce a pick-your-own approach,’ says Michael Dart. ‘In those days, there were no farm shops, and while we were surrounded by lots of small farms producing food, there was no route to market locally. Everything went into the supermarket supply chain. Over time, small farms were being squeezed out.’
The solution was rooted in common sense rather than trend forecasting. ‘We felt it was right for local food to be on local tables, so we created a hub on our farm where this could happen.’ Crucially, the family (the business is run by Michael and brother James, with older brother Paul running the farm) also saw Darts Farm as more than simply a retail outlet. ‘We believed we could be more than just a shop; we wanted to be a destination where people could spend the day and have an experience.’
Food as an experience, not a transaction, has been the thread that’s run through the business for all 55 years. Darts has grown into a multifaceted destination encompassing multiple restaurants, a vineyard, a wellness spa (read our review of the spa), lifestyle departments and long-term partnerships with businesses that align with its values. Yet the original principle remains unchanged: championing local producers and creating meaningful connections between people and what they eat.
Over the decades, public attitudes to food have shifted dramatically. Concerns around sustainability, ethical sourcing and ultra-processed foods have moved from the margins to the mainstream. For Darts, this feels less like adaptation and more like vindication. ‘We’re seeing a shift away from ultra-processed foods. People are becoming more aware of what they eat and the associated health consequences,’ Michael says. ‘Luckily, that’s something we’ve always believed in and championed.’
At the heart of the business is a values-led approach that Michael sums up simply: ‘We’re not in the retail or hospitality business; we’re in the relationships business.’ Those relationships – with suppliers, customers and the team – are the foundation on which everything is built and many have lasted several decades. ‘When you surround yourself with people who share your values, amazing things happen,’ says Michael.
For the younger generation of the family, those values were absorbed early. Michael’s son, George, credits formative experiences beyond the farm gates. ‘I’ll always look back fondly on the Exeter Festival of Food & Drink in Northernhay Gardens,’ he says. ‘Being immersed in this world gives you a real sense of community; the passion people have for what they produce is infectious and inspiring.’ That same energy, he notes, now underpins Darts’ producer tastings and interactive events, designed to connect consumers with producers.
Nowhere is this ethos more visible than at The Farm Table, Darts’ flagship restaurant. ‘From the outset, our emphasis has been to grow or source the best seasonal ingredients, prepare them simply and serve them with enthusiasm,’ George explains. A fiercely seasonal approach means a constantly changing menu. ‘The goal is to always be the same, yet never the same … to challenge and delight people with new dishes, taking them on a journey through the seasons.’
So what will they be putting on the menu this spring? ‘I absolutely love new-season spring lamb with Jersey Royals, asparagus and wild garlic,’ he says. ‘They are only available for a relatively short window at their absolute peak and are a match made in heaven.’
A sense of journey runs through all of Darts’ food experiences, from celebratory dining at The Farm Table to waffles, pizzas or coffee in the more casual dining areas. ‘Each venue has its own distinct atmosphere and budget but share a unifying approach to food and hospitality,’ explains George. Events, meanwhile, have become a signature of the Darts Farm experience: ‘Whether that’s a collaboration with guest chefs such as Mitch Tonks, Mark Hix, Romy Gill or Tom Parker-Bowles, visits from winemakers from around the world, or evenings celebrating mushrooms, cider or tinned fish with local producers, the events have a magical feeling and create a sense of community.’
After five and a half decades, Darts Farm’s journey is far from over. If anything, its founding belief – that good food, grown well and shared locally, has the power to bring people together – feels right on track for the road ahead.
Join the birthday celebrations
To mark the 55th anniversary, events will include the launch of Darts’ inaugural Tulip Fest in April, an opportunity to see more than 350,000 bulbs in bloom on land overlooking the Exe Estuary. June brings the major 55 Year Festival that promises food, music, cookery demos, wellness events, thought-provoking speakers and family fun. Keep your eyes on socials and visit the website for details as they’re announced.
