Kathryn Lewis finds a restaurant flying the flag for indie dining in a neighbourhood overcrowded with corporate copycats and microwave cooking

This charming spot, close to Royal William Yard, has enjoyed stints as a seafood restaurant, Italian eatery and even a chippy before Ryan and Tanya took over in September 2017.

Combining his passion for seasonal cookery and her flair for front of house, they’ve created the kind of British bistro that everyone wishes was at the end of their street.

VISIT for a menu of inspiring seasonal produce-led dishes alongside familiar comfort food.

After almost 30 years spent sharpening his skills in some of Yorkshire and Plymouth’s best kitchens, Ryan’s first role as chef proprietor sees him focusing on marrying flavours around one or two star ingredients.

On our visit, rosy gin-cured salmon sat with a sweet ‘n’ sharp apple puree and creamy celeriac remoulade, while Creedy Carver confit duck and fiery harissa baked aubergine were soothed with a honeyed parsnip puree. And, if you’re craving comfort on a wintry eve, the sinful sticky toffee pudding with tart yogurty cream should hit the sweet spot.

DON’T VISIT for a speedy supper. There’s a small team running this family bistro, so take advantage of the leisurely pace and pause between courses to savour good wine and company.

WE LIKED the focus on ethically sourced and locally grown ingredients. The gin used to cure the salmon? Plymouth’s own. The mix of meaty molluscs stocking the fish stew? Spot the fishing boats in the harbour. The plump figs packed into the sticky toffee pud? Plucked from the restaurant’s courtyard.