Jane Rakison visits the new bistro bringing authentic Gallic gastronomy to Bristol Harbour
What’s the draw?
Gloriously Gallic flavours in a Bristol indie hotspot.
Co-owners Dan O’Regan and Jack Briggs-Horan’s new restaurant (sister to Bristol stalwart Bank) is a cosy, easy-going find that’s just as good for a light(ish) lunch as a long and decadent dinner.
Inside, it combines sage-coloured walls, wooden tables and a wall of wine bottles with a blackboard chalked up with a competitive prix fixe menu and the wine of the week (a Gigondas on this visit and served from a magnum, obvs). Lapin has all the hallmarks of an authentic French bistro, except it’s slap bang in the middle of Bristol.
Who’s cooking?
As at Bank, Jack Briggs-Horan is executive chef. For him, Lapin is a chance to revisit the flavours of his childhood family holidays across the Channel. Working alongside him is senior sous Will Holliday, who’s cooked at Bulrush, L’Enclume and Little French.
Carole Petitbois delivers light-touch yet highly effective service as restaurant manager, and is the palate behind the excellent wine list.
What to order?
The savoury menu includes seven starters, five mains, a further three sharing mains and a very reasonable rotating prix fixe for £29, so there’s plenty of choice.
Our starter of Brixham scallops with lobster bisque was served in the shell. Beautifully cooked and scattered with golden breadcrumbs and vibrant fresh herbs, it was the perfect modestly sized dish to try alongside the ultra-decadent soufflé suissesse. The wobbly gruyère-loaded mound swimming in a moat of creamy chive-flecked cheese was heavenly.
Although the sharing main of roast duck à l’orange with braised chicory looked like the must-order, we resisted in order to try two separate dishes.
A confit duck leg with spring cassoulet, kielbasa and tomato was bronzed and crisp on top, while smoky sausage folded into the white creamy cassoulet delivered a fantastic contrast of flavour and texture.
Our other main of gnocchi parisienne with roscoff onions and soubise (one of two veggie mains on the menu) featured golden gnocchi pebbles and glossy shards of onion on a rich soubise.
A side of super-smooth pomme purée with an obscene ratio of butter to potato (and which was further pimped with the addition of Rollright cheese) dutifully met all expectations of the French classic.
With a quick tug on the waistband to ensure it could accommodate dessert, we capitulated to pain perdu with wedges of sticky apple and a scoop of ice cream, and a Saint Emilion au chocolat. The latter was served in a terrine-like format with the bitter chocolate ganache contrasting deliciously with layers of crushed amaretti biscuit.
Need to know
Marvel at, and order from, the almost exclusively French wine list, which may well be the best in the region.
The 60 wines are available by the 125ml glass, carafe or bottle, on a list grouped by style to encourage guests to broaden their horizons. If you’re still unsure, ask for Carole.
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