Rosanna Rothery visits Budock Vean Hotel & Spa, a sanctuary of tranquility perched above the Helford River in Cornwall
The restorative power of nature can’t be denied when the hotel you’re staying in sits above the banks of Cornwall’s tranquil Helford River. The stunning estuary takes a starring role at this four‑star haven, where rejuvenating saunas, sports, swimming and spa treatments are an antidote to doomscrolling and adrenaline addiction. Even if you arrive in a sapped state, you’ll leave serene from river walks, garden jaunts, pampering rituals and – should you be inspired to putt balls and swing irons – a round of golf.
Gorgeous gardens
First, though, explore the stunning garden. Even if there’s a light drizzle, it’s fun sheltering beneath huge gunneras and a canopy of trees. Take a saunter past ponds and exotic plants to discover a private cove nestled into the river. The utter peacefulness of this oak‑fringed stretch of water transports you to another age. The ancient woods, bobbing boats and quiet shores feel a world away from modern life.
A yomp along the coast to pebbled nooks and pretty villages makes for a bracing tonic. There’s plenty to discover in this beautiful part of Cornwall: hidden-away coves, ancient creeks, cosy pubs and a unique microclimate that favours jungly plants.
Two of the most beautiful gardens are within walking distance. Both Trebah and the National Trust’s Glendurgan are home to a number of exotic and subtropical species, and both wend their way to the water’s edge on Helford’s shoreline.
Time for tea
Coastal walks should be rewarded with a sumptuous afternoon tea in the conservatory. Who doesn’t enjoy cooing over a three‑tiered stand of finger sandwiches, fresh‑from‑the‑oven scones and elegant bite‑size patisserie?
Both the fruit and plain scones are towering triumphs (not those disappointing dense numbers, barely worth a scraping of butter) and come paired with clotted cream, Boddington’s Cornish strawberry jam and lashings of juicy gossip. And when the time comes to take up arms (teaspoon, butter knife) and defend the order in which you apply jam and cream, do remember where you are.
R&R at the spa
Don’t leave without paying a visit to the spa. Surrounded by leafy plants, the indoor swimming pool and aspen‑wood finnish sauna provide the kind of rejuvenating water‑and‑heat therapies that facilitate survival during the colder months. Weather permitting, top it all off with a sesh in the outdoor hot tub. The bubbling cauldron of stress-relief sits on a chic Scandinavian‑style raised deck with views across the garden.
These rural surroundings also set the tone for a nature‑centric, hour‑long spa treatment indoors. There are plenty of facials and therapies to choose from, but a Gaia Restorative Treatment is especially blissful.
First comes a warm footbath, followed by a foot massage, which sends feelings of grounded wellbeing coursing through your body. Then a skin‑tingling back exfoliation brings nerve endings alive. Next, a thermal mud mask, hot stones and a massage with warmed oils gifts the body the kind of therapeutic heat it craves in winter. Skin is left buttery soft, knots are kneaded away and the mind feels joyously calm. Gaia products are loaded with plant actives and essential oils so you’ll also smell divine.
Activities galore
For those feeling the need to earn dinner, there are plenty of activities to be experienced at the hotel. In summer, boat trips, paddleboarding and kayaking on the river make for diverting fun. Follow with drinks at the riverside sun lounge.
In winter, curling up with a book and recharging the batteries is infinitely more appealing. Choose your spot from four comfy lounges, a garden conservatory, a cocktail bar and the golf bar.
That said, climatic conditions tend to be pretty mild in this corner of the world, so don’t rule out a spot of tennis or giving the popular nine‑hole golf course your best shot.
Follow your exertions with a traditional dinner in the Helford Restaurant. Here you’ll discover a mixture of specials, such as roast duck breast with port and cherry sauce, alongside old‑school classics like pan‑roasted chicken supreme and desserts such as peach-melba trifle.
Cornish magic
The hotel has a super‑relaxed, home‑from‑home vibe. Conversations are struck up by guests over cocktails, dinner and sundowners and the atmosphere is charmingly unpretentious. There’s a lovely range of accommodation to choose from, including smart contemporary self‑catering lodges and well-equipped holiday cottages.
If you prefer to stay inside the hotel, the spacious suites have everything you need: comfy lounge, large bathroom with walk‑in shower, fluffy gowns, flip-flops, pool towels and generous bottles of Gaia products. Window snugs, providing charming views over the garden to the wooded valley, are the perfect perch for that first perk‑up coffee of the day.
Brekkie is unapologetically traditional (not a smashed avo or chia pot in sight), so set yourself up for the day with dry‑cured bacon, baked ham, smoked salmon and toasted muffins. There’s also a supporting cast of yogurt, croissants and fruits.
If, on arrival at Budock Vean Hotel & Spa, you found yourself topping up your cortisol levels by scrolling through your social media feed or obsessing over life admin, rest assured this peaceful corner of Cornwall won’t fail to work its rejuvenating magic. The Helford River is a heavenly spot worth returning to again and again
