Coastal dining room with a view? Rosanna Rothery journeys to the southerly edge of Devon, where the land drops away to the shore at Gara Rock near Salcombe
There’s no disputing the setting of Gara Rock’s restaurant is sensational: 180-degree scenic views take in a wild and windswept coast, aqua-blue seas and an endlessly changing skyscape.
Getting there can be rather exciting too: a web of narrow south Devon lanes leads you further and further from civilisation towards the county’s edge where the land drops sheerly to the shore.
Above all this sits Gara Rock, a hotel perched in solitary splendour on jagged cliffs overlooking the Channel. All the tables in its semi-circular restaurant are carefully placed so guests can gaze out at sheep-dotted hills, glistening waves and the soft rays of the sun.
Of course, there’s a real danger that nature’s theatre could steal the show, but the menu complements the coastal magnificence and provides star attractions of its own.
Seafood superstars
As you’d hope from a restaurant overlooking the ocean, the day’s seafood catch was being prepped in the kitchen on the evening we visited. The specials board read like a beauty parade of local delicacies and included St Austell mussels and Devon ray wing.
We started with a delightfully delicate Cornish mackerel crudo, its jumble of fish and cucumber batons given zesty lift by ponzu sauce and spicy wasabi. A perfect red mullet main to follow was lent creamy spiced warmth from a carrot and coconut puree and cumin yogurt.
Hearty options
In contrast, the Devon-lamb flatbread starter could only be described as a meal in itself. Picture a meaty Cypriot-style pizza imbued with satisfying flavour bombs such as sweet-spicy guindillas and garlicky tzatziki.
A generous hasselback-courgette veggie main was equally hearty. Packed with flavour, it included hot harissa, sweet and tangy red onion marmalade, creamy labneh and spicy dukkah. Crisp outside and beautifully tender within, it was exactly the kind of dish you’d want to dive into after a bracing stomp along the South West Coast Path outside.
Last autumn’s hedgerows were, no doubt, raided for our grand finale: a delightful blackberry sorbet with poached blackberries and spiced apple cake.
Sweet solitude
Given the narrow lanes and tempting selection of biodynamic wines on offer, opting for a night’s stopover at this clifftop haven would be a thoroughly defensible decision.
Sea-view bedrooms, a luxury spa and an outdoor pool deliver stylish coastal-lifestyle vibes. Highlights at breakfast include tepache (made from fermented pineapple skin and given a minty twist), pancakes and homemade banana bread lavished with Gara honey.
The best escapes are often those that take a little effort to find, and Gara is a great spot for those seeking delicious food and adventure beyond the tourist hotspots – although yachty Salcombe is nearby should you start pining for bougie bustle.
