Rosanna Rothery appreciates food as art at the Michelin‑starred restaurant at Boringdon Hall, near Plymouth
Some chefs excel at local sourcing, focusing on seasonal stars. Others showcase impressive technical skills, turning out on‑point classics. Occasionally, you encounter a culinary talent who blows your mind with stunning creativity and combines scintillating textures and flavours in each mouthful.
The rarest chef of all, though, is the one who does all of the above and adds their own signature style to boot. At the Michelin‑starred, four‑AA‑rosette Àclèaf at Boringdon Hall, such artistry is brandished in every dish.
You won’t want to eat them, though. Not at first, anyway. Gawping in awe at executive chef Scott Paton’s handiwork for a few moments is perfectly acceptable when dishes look this elegant. As with all good art, great craftsmanship slows you down, drops you into the present moment and invites you to engage your senses and notice detail.
Scott started his career at Jack in the Green near Exeter and refined his skills as head chef at the Horn of Plenty in Tavistock, before gaining his star at Boringdon Hall. His culinary prowess, honed over almost a decade at the hotel, is complemented by a front‑of‑house team who create beautiful experiences for guests. When Boringdon’s fine‑dining restaurant Àclèaf opened in 2020, it became the main focal point for his, and their, talents.
When it comes to ordering at Àclèaf, agonising decisions must be made. Should you choose the seven‑course tasting menu, one of the wine‑paired menus or a four‑course dinner? Rest assured, whichever route you take (we opted for four courses), the experience will be exquisite.
First to arrive was the bread and hors d’oeuvres trolley. Pain de campagne, including a pain de morvan, served with goat’s butter dressed in Boringdon honey and wildflowers, made the kind of beginning to a meal that heralds: ‘You’re in safe hands’.
For Scott’s fans, it’s de rigueur to start with his signature curry‑and‑mango crab dish, and it lived up to its reputation with zesty citrus flavours and a spicy emulsion that bestowed depth. To follow, tender turbot with scallop and langoustine in a classic beurre blanc enjoyed a Japanese makeover with a nori jacket and touch of yuzu and green chilli.
The next course was a fabulous medley of seasonal flavours delivering a piquant bite to the loin of venison supplied by Curtis Pitts. To finish, a single‑origin Nicolas Berger chocolate cracked open to reveal a gratifyingly gorgeous pistachio custard.
Dining at Àclèaf is pretty special. The historical building speaks for itself, but it’s the little gifts that wing their way to your table during dinner that add additional delight. We were treated to a cauliflower and truffle velouté, a stupendous milk‑bread brioche, handcrafted chocolates, and a psychology board game that resulted in a bonus (bespoke) dessert.
The culinary odyssey is expertly overseen by restaurant manager and sommelier James Senior. He’s rather like a superb DJ, keeping the mood elevated and lining up top wine matches to take the audience to yet higher levels of joy.
Tip
If you plan to explore the menu of heady cocktails and sought‑after wines, stay overnight in a smart Wellness Suite and spend the next morning being nourished in the watery bliss of Gaia Spa.
