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Abi Manning heads to Dartmoor to eat dining‑pub classics in an ancient inn
What’s the draw?
The opportunity to dive back in time in the wibbly‑wobbly setting of a thatched 13th‑century inn with granite walls that blend into the surrounding moorland.
Character continues inside the Bearslake Inn, with its cob walls, low beams and labyrinthine passages leading to numerous cosy corners for supper. The pub was once three separate cottages, so it’s appropriate that guests feel so at home here. Warm hospitality from owner Lisa Jenkins and team also plays its part.
Who’s cooking?
Head chef Dolton Lodge (formerly of The Galley in Topsham and The Lamb at Longdown).
Dolton upholds his reputation for precise cooking using quality seasonal ingredients, but in this setting does the honours with gastropub classics, giving them contemporary relevance.
What to order?
On our visit, we were seduced by a range of snacks including whipped chicken‑liver parfait with burnt orange and red‑wine shallots on toasted clotted‑cream brioche.
The chef’s pleasure in the playful opportunities of his craft was clear in a crispy squid starter spiked with lime aioli, caramelised lime, pickled chilli dressing and coriander, presented in fish-and-chip paper.
Mains were a celebration of local, seasonal flavours. Cider‑braised pork belly with roast Cornish cauliflower, confit potato, Granny Smith and cider jus saw a beautifully tender piece of meat paired with vibrant apple elements.
To finish, our duo of puds were a joy of texture and flavour. The Bearslake Signature Chocolate Bar of hazelnut crémeux and double chocolate ice cream is a treat which, when breached, delivers grown‑up‑Nutella vibes with just the right amount of richness. A sweet white chocolate dish cut through with the tang of blood orange and passionfruit provided an alternative, but just as notable, end to the meal.
Need to know
After venturing across the moor to the sanctuary of the inn, it would be a shame not to stay the night. Happily, guests can turn dinner into a gourmet getaway in one of six unique rooms (four of which are dog‑friendly). A stay includes delivery of a breakfast hamper brimming with local yogurt, warm muffins, cereal, fresh fruits, juices and tea and coffee.
We stayed in the spacious Hayloft in the rafters of the thatch, which has views to Sourton Tor from its juliet balcony.
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