There’s only one way to end a wild moorland walk in winter, and that’s an indulgent feed in an authentic country pub. Hop to it – and don’t skip pudding, says Selena Young
Nothing sweetens the soul in the frosty months like a stomp in the countryside followed by a hearty meal and a drink by the fire in a characterful pub.
The ritual is embedded in our culture and one of the comforting pleasures we cling to in winter. For while it’s in our DNA to moan about bad weather, we also get the ‛warm and fuzzies’ from the season. Cashmere knits, dogs snoring in front of the fire, steamed puddings, large glasses of red wine and games of Bananagrams come to mind.
I recently had those feelings stirred while at 13th‑century pub the Blue Ball Inn, hidden away on the magical landscape of Exmoor National Park.
Located in Countisbury on Devon’s sliver of Exmoor (over 70 per cent lies in Somerset) and near the twin villages of Lynton and Lynmouth, this cosy pub with rooms is a pleasingly authentic gateway to the moor.
Work up an appetite before your visit by exploring the charming villages, nearby coastline (Valley of Rocks is a personal fave) or the sweeping hills encircling the pub. As Exmoor is a Dark Sky Reserve, you might even wish upon a shooting star for stags and wild ponies to cross your path.
Once you’ve arrived, chilly and tired after a hearty hike, you’ll be ready to slide into a comfy chair by the fire and pick your poison from the pleasing bar menu. As a St Austell Brewery tenanted pub, stonking brews on tap are guaranteed, while bottles of locally distilled spirits gleam behind the bar.
New owner Roger Payne of the Eclection group (the team behind Robun in Bath) took over the Blue Ball in early 2025 and has given the inn a fresh makeover. This includes glow‑ups of the pub’s cosy nooks and crannies as well as a tasteful refurb of the suite of guest rooms.
In contrast to these contemporary adjustments is a dining menu that bows to tradition by majoring on nostalgic comfort food. Fine dining it isn’t, but a cosy country pub where the whole fam can feast and feel at home? Absolutely.
Classic pub fare like Exmoor beef burgers, fish and chips and a pie of the day feature on a line‑up that also includes seasonal specials. On our visit these took the form of slow‑cooked pork belly with pomme puree, fresh veg and rich gravy, and pan‑fried duck breast with dauphinoise potatoes, Tenderstem broccoli, red cabbage and sweet plum sauce. We plumped for the latter and found slices of earthy, tender meat paired with a tangy cloak.
Bookending the meal was a starter of saffron, leek and pea arancini with garlic mayo – gentle in flavour, satisfying in crunch – and a bloated‑belly‑pending dessert of sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream. For comfort in a bowl, it hit the sweet spot nicely.
