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Jane Rakison dives into a casual dinner at Lympstone Manor’s chic poolside hangout
What’s the draw?
Like a Bond villain’s lair, the Pool House rises out of the dip in the perfectly manicured grounds of Lympstone Manor. The ultra‑sleek glass and timber construction is quite a departure from the formality of its Michelin‑starred sister restaurant and hotel, which peers down the hill at its sibling as though keeping a watchful eye that it isn’t having too much fun.
Bad news for the manor, however, as the Pool House is all about good times – without skimping on any of Lympstone’s famous attention to detail. Before entering the restaurant you walk past a large outdoor pool bordered with slick sun loungers, a marble‑topped bar on a festoon‑lit terrace, and the de rigeur piece of kit for any alfresco dining space: a bespoke barbecue.
The Pool House has been crafted with floor-to-ceiling retractable glass doors, its airiness heightened further by a lofty ceiling. In the centre of all this informal sophistication is a smart firepit and custom-made furniture from which visitors can gaze over the views of the manor’s vineyard and the River Exe beyond.
Although the heated outdoor pool and facilities such as the tennis courts are for hotel guests and club members only, the restaurant is open to everyone.
Who’s cooking?
Michael Caines MBE designs the menus, while his team of chefs run the kitchen at the Pool House. As well as regular lunches and suppers, the Pool House features a programme of supper clubs and wine dinners – many attended by the chef patron.
What to order?
All of the Pool House menus – light bites, set menu, à la carte – draw on ingredients from the lavish South West larder. Steaks with sauces, market fish of the day, warm paninis, luxe burgers and posh pasta are all well‑executed crowd pleasers.
On our visit, the starters of salt and pepper squid and grilled sea bream were packed with flavour and seasoned to perfection, while mains of tikka chicken breast with Asian slaw displayed on‑point levels of spice. We also ordered the piscatorial special of hake served with the smoothest of herby butter sauces. It was so good we wondered if it might have accidentally found its way onto the wrong menu and should be featuring across the lawn in the starry surroundings of Michael’s accoladed restaurant.
Puds were pitched nicely – decadent without being heavy. We plumped for the paris brest with tonka‑bean ice cream, and dessert of the day: a spiced pear mousse with a pear compot‑like surprise centre, accompanied by a scoop of gingerbread ice cream that hugged it on the plate. Delicious.
Need to know
The sophistication of the space and the posh Club Tropicana vibes it exudes might suggest this is a grown‑ups‑only restaurant, but it’s actually very family friendly and even has a kids’ menu. Pooches are also welcome.
While the restaurant has been open to the public since 2023, during the summer months priority is understandably given to residents and members, although it’s usually possible to bag a table. Or visit the Lympstone website for details on how to become a member and dive into the full Pool House experience with all the additional perks.
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