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Med-inspired feasting above Mothecombe Beach makes this en vogue restaurant one for your little black book, says Selena Young
What’s the draw?
This former school turned cool eatery lies within the Flete Estate on the south Devon coast, a frequented spot thanks to the secluded cove of Mothecombe Beach nearby.
However, there wasn’t a soul on the scenic expanse of beach when we visited for lunch. Visitors were instead busily nibbling on bubbling stone-baked pizzas and downing juicy cocktails in the covered courtyard of School House.
The restaurant blurs the line between casual bites and refined dining, which feels perfect in this coastal setting. When deciding where to eat out, so often the consensus among family and friends is somewhere laidback with small plates or ‘good’ pizza; a place where it’s perfectly acceptable to wear Birkenstocks and socks while knocking back a spicy Picanté or two and feasting on dishes of sound provenance. School House scores top marks across the board.
From its rustic aesthetic and smooth service to the modern Mediterranean-influenced menus, it’s a crowd-pleasing find in line with the dining zeitgeist.
Who’s cooking?
Lloyd Inwood is the culinary headmaster to be found trimming pasta, stretching dough and filleting fish in the open kitchen. The head chef trained with Rick Stein and also worked alongside the Tanner brothers in Plymouth.
What to order?
The menu comprises small and large plates (sharing is encouraged so don’t sit selfish eaters in the middle), as well as hand-stretched pizzas with bougie toppings like taleggio with mushroom, truffle oil and rosemary salt – with sides of black garlic aioli and pesto sour cream for crust dunking.
With a salt-tinged breeze in the sea air, our appetite for net-fresh seafood was keen, so the school bell sounded for our first class – sorry, course – with a large serving of grilled sardines blanketed in punchy salsa verde with a squeeze of fresh lemon. Underneath their piquant coat of parsley and garlic, the sardines’ flesh was unctuously soft. We also ordered an orb of burrata served with jammy figs and truffle honey.
Sticking with seafood for mains, we hit up the catch of the day – a handsome hunk of pan-fried hake dressed in more of the racy salsa verde – and checked out the house favourite of Devon crab linguine. The freshly made pasta had perfect bite, each silken strand unfurling potent flavours from its bedfellows of crab, chilli, garlic, parsley and samphire.
Need to know
The takeaway menu is ideal if you want to snaffle your School House haul on the beach. It’s also worth exploring the calendar of events, plus seasonal offers such as £10 pizza and happy hour.
School House also has sister establishments: Harbour House in Flushing and Beach House in Salcombe.
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