Abi Manning discovers moorland magic at work at Dartmoor’s fairytale Castle
Picture the scene: the sky, dramatic; a fresh autumn breeze in the air; a yomp across Dartmoor beckons. And the all-important question … at which dining pub will you end your walk?
Nothing dampens the spirits after a wild and windy hike like a pile of soggy oven chips and a burger that’s been zapped from frozen. That’s why The Castle Inn, with its moorland magnetism, cosiness and comfort food, is such a find.
Hannah and Jared Lothian are the heart and soul of this pub. They took it on as tenants from St Austell Brewery in 2019, determined to reinvigorate the ancient building and turn it into a welcoming community hub.
If the pub’s haul of awards is any indicator, they’ve hit the mark. The Castle Inn bagged Best Pub at the Devon Tourism Awards and the Food Drink Devon Awards in 2023, and it holds a clutch of gold Taste of the West awards for the rooms (13 above the pub and in a cottage opposite), pub and bar.
The couple add more than a touch of magic to the proceedings, but it’s the setting that takes the experience into fairytale territory.
Zoom out for a scene of wooded valleys and hills, the Granite Way path and the 30m waterfall at Lydford Gorge. Pull focus to come closer and explore medieval Lydford Castle next door – allegedly, the original home of the pub’s dining room fireplace. Then pan to the pub itself – in parts dating to the 16th century – which is all low ceilings, wonky beams, narrow passageways and ancient stone. The historical building has been tastefully furnished in a rustic fashion that’s fully in keeping with its ancient character.
As to what to eat? The food hits the crowd-pleasing sweet spot where elevated pub classics meet fancier fare. So it’s no surprise to find the space populated by couples dining à la carte, groups sipping cocktails and scoffing pizza outside under the heated tent, and hikers – fresh off the moor and with pooches in tow – sinking pints of Proper Job at the bar.
Whipping up the goods in the kitchen is chef Mike Palmer, whose cooking creds make him a bewitching addition here. Best known for his long tenure at nearby Two Bridges Hotel in Princetown (where he grew up), he’s a recent recipient of Food Drink Devon’s Chef of the Year.
Mike majors on fulsome flavours. On this visit, puffy focaccia with homemade pesto set the scene for a smorgasbord of starters packed with texture. Cod croquettes with king-prawn curry sauce and bhaji warmed the cockles, while ripped burrata was leant sweet tanginess by star anise-spiked peaches, granola, coppa ham, balsamic and honey.
Meltingly soft slow-cooked blade of Dartmoor beef with onion and a cheddar and brisket croquette was a richly pleasing showcase of the terroir. We also took a trip to the seaside with the special of butterflied Cornish mackerel with Isle of Wight heritage tomatoes, chorizo, chimichurri and sautéed new potatoes.
Our finale – a sugar-and-caffeine high courtesy of white choc pannacotta with English strawberries and honeycomb, paired with a shot of Ivybridge-roasted Owens coffee – would be just the thing to rev up diners for the hike home.
Need to know Hannah and Jared also run another pub, The Copley Arms in Hessenford, Cornwall. Visit for similar community-centric values, warm hospitality and fab food on the River Seaton, five minutes from the sea.
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