Prithvi, Cheltenham

A trip to Prithvi must be made with caution, as once you’ve embarked on a epicurean expedition at this temple to fine Asian cooking there’s a good chance you won’t be able to visit your fave local Indian ever again, says Kathryn Lewis

Starting his career as a waiter in this little restaurant on Cheltenham’s Bath Road, it was only fitting that Jay Rahman would one day acquire the venue to fulfil his culinary ambitions. He returned to the town after working in some of the country’s top hotels and restaurants. Four and a half years – and a number of prestigious awards – later, you’ll find Jay charming diners as he works the floor.

VISIT FOR the familiar flavours of your fave South Indian dishes, kicked up a couple levels of creativity and refined for first-class occasion dining. A well-seasoned blend of culinary cultures in the kitchen – such as the Bengali head chef and French pastry chef – means plates present an enthralling mix of tastes and textures. Our starter of meaty king prawn and seared scallops in a sea of creamy coconut jus, spliced with a slice of fresh green apple, and an exquisite dessert of cardamom-infused doughnut with a cool pistachio kulfi, tell you all you need to know.

DON’T VISIT if you can’t handle the heat. Although this is a subtle spice that improves rather than impedes the delicate balance of fragrant flavours carefully running through each course.

WE LIKED the comprehensive Prithvi wine list and elegant surroundings that complement the restaurant’s impressive menu. The wine flight is a must with the tasting menu.