Homewood, Bath
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Jane Rakison heads to Bath to spice up her life at Bandook, an Indian restaurant with smart street food at its heart
What’s the draw?
A courtyard‑based restaurant immediately beckons you in. Is it the lack of traffic noise? The feeling it’s an off‑grid gem? Perhaps both, which, together with Bath‑stone environs leading to Bandook’s entrance, only add to the seduction of eating à la courtyard.
Bandook’s interior is equally as appealing. Dark wood panels, leather banquettes and soft lighting create a welcoming vibe, while walls are plastered in prints and vintage photographs complete with annotations: ‘Miss India 1966’ here, ‘The first rupee coin to feature Queen Victoria’s portrait’ there.
Who’s cooking?
Head chef Sunil Duklan joined the Bandook team in 2024, bringing with him first‑rate Indian restaurant creds. He’s done stints at Amaya in Belgravia and Tamarind of Mayfair – one of the first Indian restaurants in the world to pick up a Michelin star.
Once the bulk of service is over and everyone’s contemplating whether there’s room for dessert, Sunil is partial to chin‑wagging with diners. Artfully, he weaves his way through the restaurant’s three main rooms to discuss the menu and his own take on – and appreciation of – Indian‑style sweet-and-sour flavours.
What to order?
The menu is a sight for greedy eyes, even if it does come as a simple‑to‑navigate single sheet. Dishes arrive as they’re ready, and it begins with a touch of theatre in the form of pani puri: puffed semolina shells filled with chickpeas and served with a mini jug of jal jeera. This is duly poured into the top of the shell before each is immediately consumed in one cheek‑filling mouthful. This fun and flavour‑packed start is enhanced by the arrival of vintage teacups and a teapot filled with a Hendrick’s‑based English Summer Punch.
The small plates section of the menu is where Bandook’s street-food personality really shines. A tempting array of dishes hover around the £7‑£8 mark – apart from Punjabi lamb chops which, at £13, are still well worth the money. The tender Welsh lamb is marinated in Punjabi spices, grilled to perfection with a crusty coating, and topped with mint chutney.
While chilli paneer may not sound especially intriguing, it was the surprise hit of our visit, the sticky amber‑coloured cubes delivering a fascinating – and very moreish – take on sweet and sour. The gobi 65 was another favourite, its mini cauliflower florets deep fried, thoughtfully spiced and satisfyingly crunchy.
From the curry bowl menu, Grandma’s Chicken Curry is an understandable house favourite and an homage to cinnamon.
To finish with less of a bang and more of a hug, we ordered gulab jamun – stickiness personified – and saffron kheer, a rice pudding made with basmati, saffron and pistachio. It was like visiting an old friend who’s been on a month‑long wellness retreat – familiar yet noticeably improved.
Need to know
Fans of jazz should visit on a Thursday evening when a live five‑piece band is in residence. And if a romantic evening is on the cards, book one of the intimate booths for two.
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