Red Lion, East Chisenbury

Dynamo chefs, Guy and Brittany Manning (who met while working at Thomas Keller’s prestigious three Michelin star New York restaurant, Per Se) have built the Red Lion’s reputation for seriously good food served with zero pomp in a thatched country pub. Rosanna Rothery investigated

Formidable skills in the kitchen, coupled with attention to detail out front, have seen the pair’s hard work recognised with a Michelin star and 3 AA rosettes. However, not ones to be complacent, they’ve since opened a tranquil guesthouse just a few steps away from the pub, marking the Red Lion out as an enticing gourmet retreat.

VISIT FOR the food. Simply put, it’s exquisite. Starting with cromesquis – tender herbed venison in croquettes flavoured with apricot puree and griottine cherries. The following roasted loin of veal was luscious, endowed with silky creaminess from an almond and blue cheese buttermilk emulsion.

The homemade puds are where pastry chef Brittany’s stonking skills shine bright. Do not miss the opportunity to avail yourself of the pistachio financier cake with its soft nutty crumb, with poached Yorkshire rhubarb, yogurt and Cointreau ice cream. Team it with an aromatic fruity sake – you’ll find GM Mike Stephenson’s drink pairings spot on.

DON’T VISIT if you like to play it safe. This is a cosmopolitan menu that dazzles with creativity.

WE LIKED the glam touches (a deliciously dinky slipper bath and walk-in power shower) in our huge room at the Troutbeck, the Red Lion’s tranquil boutique guesthouse. Enjoy a long soak and read a novel on the private terrace before wandering across the road to the pub for a superb wine-matched supper.