Stroud & surrounds

Jane Rakison does a long weekend at the Cotswolds hotspot and its swanky satellite villages

Make the journey to Gloucestershire early on Friday morning. You’ll be glad you did. We’d suggest spending your first day and night in Nailsworth. However, before you even get there, start as you mean to go on and book an early massage or swim at Calcot&Spa, which is to be found in countryside not far from the town. The state-of-the-art country club and spa is, happily, open to non-members and very welcoming.

Once you hit Nailsworth, post-travel coffee and bakes comes courtesy of tiny bakery Happy Cinnamon. Pop one of the roasted onion and duck fat sourdough loaves in your forever shopping bag before hopping across the street to book an eight-course tasting dinner for that night at three-AA-rosette Wilder.

Window shopping and general mooching is easy to do in this little town as there are independent shops aplenty. Visit potter Grant Sonnex in a studio filled with one-of-a-kind ceramic vessels inspired by the local landscape. Stunning everyday homewares and gifts can be found at Domestic Science, which is connected by a bright pink and red candy-stripe staircase to bustling cafe The Canteen on the floor below. It’s the perfect lunchtime pit stop.

If you’re staying in self-catering accommodation, be sure to pay a visit to fishmonger William’s for super-fresh seafood and a vast array of top-notch deli goodies. Pudding can be sorted a few doors away at Baked by Beth. Insta-worthy iced cakes on the counter feature on-trend flavour combos like rose and rhubarb.

If self-catering is a no-no, book atmospheric accommodation at the 16th-century Egypt Mill. Watch the sun set from a waterside table in the riverside garden then retreat to a characterful bedroom.

Saturday

Stroud purrs with the hustle and bustle of a thriving market town and Saturday morning is when it is at its most vibrant.

The market is always brimming with delicious edibles – both greedy eats to consume hot or ingredients to take home – so it’s a haven for foodies. For bites to‑go, check out Raclette Raclette‘s melted cheese sandwiches, which are so good they probably shouldn’t be legal. Or feast on squidgy herb‑packed falafel and stop‑in‑your‑tracks streetfood like the chicken satay from local legend Niangs Thai.

On the ingredients front, freshly made kefir, probiotic yogurt and feta‑style cheese from Windrush Valley are standout – and so beautifully packaged they’re gift‑worthy. Top-grade organic meat is to be found at Adey’s Farm.

Sweet-tooths should head to Bedford Street where Glazed Bakehouse makes grown‑up‑friendly doughnuts which can be ordered in advance via Instagram (tip: the passionfruit glaze is immense).

Stroud is a fiercely independent town with sustainability credentials and a thriving creative community. Some of its members’ work can be seen at Union Street, a boutique gallery and shop showcasing ornamental patchwork, cool candelabras, unique jewellery and more. Made in Stroud is another treasure trove of local makers’ talent, while SVA (Stroud Valleys Artspace) is a fantastic spot to admire contemporary artists’ work.

If the grilled cheese sandwich didn’t kick lunch into touch, Juliet is your go‑to. Despite being pretty new, this sister to iconic The Woolpack in Slad has already become an unmissable restaurant in this part of the world. Visit the neighbourhood bistro for top‑quality ingredients turned into excellent no‑nonsense and impeccably plated Italian and French dishes.

Afternoon caffeination can be found at Fairtrade coffee shop Cacao House on Bedford Street and Rough Hands in Five Valleys arcade. The latter is also home to the epic Artisan Bakery and a cornucopia of food and drink vendors selling everything from bubble tea to Spanish deli goods.

A two‑minute drive north of Stroud takes you to The Malthouse Collective. The red‑brick converted mill is a find for its beautiful curation of antiques, antiquities and modern goods. Its buzzy cafe Brick & Brew serves breakfast and brunch and is a cosy spot for a break from treasure hunting.

After a busy Saturday, relax and reload at The Painswick. The boutique hotel in the gorgeous eponymous village is well placed to facilitate countryside romps as wellies and coats are provided. Luxurious comfort via roll‑top baths, fluffy robes and squishy bedding also await.

Don’t miss aperitifs at the hotel bar, or the very good eating at the hotel’s restaurant Sauce. The kitchen is led by head chef Jamie McCallum, who has recently rejuvenated the menu to reflect seasonal and locally sourced produce.

Sunday

Painswick is a blissfully quiet spot for an easy Sunday morning stroll. That said, there’ll be plenty of action going down at Juniper, a haven for locals and visitors who swing by the cafe for speciality coffee and baked goods from Artisan Bakery.

The village is centred around St Mary’s Painswick, a church surrounded by an awe-inspiring display of 90 perfectly clipped yew trees.

To work off those mid-morning pastries, take a short hike (walking shoes aren’t necessary) up Painswick Beacon and experience life-affirming 360° views of Gloucestershire and beyond. Or visit Painswick Rococo Garden, the only Rococo garden left in the country.

For Sunday lunch, it has to be one of two devilishly good Cotswolds pubs. The Woolpack in Slad is a 300-year-old institution with a fi reside bar, equally snug dining room and an outdoor terrace. The food oozes homecooked comfort but the flavours are more sophisticated than you could conjure up at home. The wine list is eclectic and well sourced, as is the range of craft beers and fi ne ciders. Best of all, though, is the atmosphere. It’s electric.

Over in Selsley, The Bell Inn is a proper dog-friendly local serving award-winning gourmet food. Locally sourced ingredients are integral to the menu, including veggies plucked from the head chef’s allotment and kitchen garden. Finish the weekend in style with one of its decadent Sunday lunches and a gin from the ginormous collection.

For a final unforgettable pit stop, don’t miss Jolly Nice. The well-stocked farm shop and cafe also has a unique drive-through that sells takeaway food to support local growers who work regeneratively. Grab something delicious for supper and take a taste of Stroud and its surroundings home with you.

Delve into more travel guides across the South West of England.