Selena Young cracks the crab with the captain of Bristol’s waterside restaurant Harbour House
When did you become head chef at Harbour House?
I joined the restaurant in 2020, after 20 years of experience in the industry. It was a pivotal time for Harbour House as it was going through a rebrand. A lot was changing to make it a standout spot for British cuisine with South-West-meets-Mediterranean influence.
What’s the dining experience like?
The building was rumoured to be designed by Brunel as his private boathouse on Bristol’s floating harbour, so it’s a unique setting with a fascinating history.
I cook what I love to eat myself, so there’s a strong focus on local seafood. I want people to leave the restaurant feeling like they’ve left my house after a happy and relaxed lunch or dinner (the menu runs all day).
Why the focus on tide-to-table eating?
We source from boats bringing in fresh seafood each day, so whatever is landed comes straight to us via the market and Wing of St Mawes.
I love the freshness and seasonality of seafood and how it changes depending on its accompanying ingredients. Also, you don’t get the same seafood year-round; some things only have a short window of three months so you have to make the most of it.
When it comes to creating the dishes, inspiration usually starts at the fish market. I consider the fish and what else is in season and then build a dish around it. I might think ‘a lobster bisque reduction would go well with this hake, maybe with risotto and fresh asparagus’ and it goes from there. Inspiration also comes from what we can get from Bristol’s Reg the Veg.
Do you favour simple or more complex dishes?
Always simple. When ingredients are fresh and in season, you don’t need to overcomplicate things. Most seafood dishes don’t need more than three or four elements to make the hero ingredient shine. I learnt that when I lived in Greece, where the cooking style is often very simple: fresh fish on the grill with lemon juice, olive oil and a pinch of salt. That’s it.
What will you be cooking this summer?
At this time of year, I get excited about curing fish. I’m adding a new crudo section to the menu, which will feature cured monkfish, sea bass and prawns.
What are some of your favourite ingredients?
The dairy produced in the South West is incredible, especially the various cheeses. I also love working with the abundance of local vegetables, while smoked anchovies and smoked mackerel are firm favourites of mine.
What’s your kitchen environment like?
The only music is the sound of pots and pans; we keep it quiet so everyone can concentrate. I’m also mindful of not overworking the kitchen team, so people don’t do 60-hour working weeks – it’s more like 40-45.
What dining trends are you seeing in Bristol?
Diners are more aware than ever of what they’re eating; they care about ingredients and where they come from.
At the same time, people want honest food at an affordable price. Cost pressures are affecting everyone, which is why we keep pricing transparent. For example, our catch of the day varies depending on market price and is balanced by the set-lunch menu which is just £15 for three courses [The Fishmonger’s Lunch].
Where do you eat out in the city?
I like Noah’s for its fish and chips. I also enjoy the steaks at Pasture, and The Granary [also owned by Harbour House] is great.
What’s your must-order recommendation at Harbour House?
Start with oysters, then try the cured monkfish and the homemade focaccia which is baked fresh each morning. For mains, I’d go for the catch of the day, grilled on the bone and served with homemade chimichurri and grilled lemon. Pair it with a glass of British fizz.
What’s on your to-do list at the restaurant?
The terrace is a big draw in summer. I’d like to elevate the experience further by adding a barbecue where we can grill fresh fish and serve it to diners while they’re sitting outdoors by the water.
