Oysters, olive trees and golden-hour suppers are all part of the charm of this seafood spot by the beach, discovers Jo Rees
What’s the draw?
With a glass of crisp white in hand, a plate of fresh oysters before you, and the turquoise waters of Swanpool Beach just a few metres away, a visit to Beach House Falmouth delivers unmistakably Mediterranean vibes.
Who needs to battle airport queues in search of Instagrammable moments when there’s freshly landed seafood served in a setting like this in Cornwall?
There are very few places in the South West where such an on-the-beach location and a quietly confident menu of fresh seafood collide. This is a spot for long, lazy lunches and golden-hour suppers where you’ll be plotting a return visit before the bill hits the table.
Previously Hooked on the Rocks, the restaurant is now part of the Beach House Group, run by Tamara Costin and William Speed. They’ve created a barefoot-gourmet dining experience that’s faithful to Hooked’s seafood soul and good-times vibe, but with a little more polish. It’s a perfect match for the cinematic sea views and soundtrack of crashing waves and clinking glasses.
In summer, clear plastic walls around the terrace area (that supplements the restaurant) roll up to let the sea breeze in, turning it into an indoor-outdoor dining room. A towering olive tree, festoon lights and Ibiza-style tunes from occasional DJs dial up the out-of-office-on mood.
Who’s cooking?
Heading up the kitchen is Jack Frame, who’s been head chef for four years, although he’s worked at the restaurant for eight. He takes an unfussy, ingredient-first approach using fresh-off -the-boat seafood and seasonal vegetables.
Service hits the mark too and complements the seaside setting: it’s friendly, knowledgeable and well paced.
What to order?
Start with the oysters – fresh, briny and sparkling with mignonette or deep fried and paired with a punchy aioli. Either way, they demand to be slurped with the house Bloody Mary that wields its heat like an axe.
Move on to a starter of tuna tartare: meltingly soft bonito lent backbone by the bite of fresh horseradish and the crunch of jerusalem artichoke crisps.
If the lemon sole’s on, do not hesitate. Ours arrived bronzed and delicate, lifted with the bright zing of blood orange and the salty pop of buttery samphire. Lobster with garlic butter and skinny fries is always an indulgent and appropriate seaside pick and, true to form, this was cracking.
There are so many alluring fish and shellfish options on the menu that choosing can feel perilous – what if you make the wrong call? If you’re dithering, opt for the hot shellfish platter to share. The treasure trove of squid, clams, cockles, mussels, prawns, scallops and oysters is served with garlic butter, and those who want to want to push the boat out (and throw away the oars) can add an optional whole crab or lobster.
Non-fish eaters are well looked after with dishes like whole burrata with grilled courgette, and breaded duck leg with parmesan and herb polenta, and oyster mushroom.
Need to know
This is one of those places locals know about and visitors stumble on by chance, thinking they’ve struck gold. While they’re Googling ‘best restaurants in Falmouth’, the locals are sipping wine on the terrace.
In summer, this terrace is the hot ticket, so book ahead to secure your spot – especially on DJ nights when the sunset and mellow beats create the best kind of beach party.
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