St Michaels Resort, Falmouth

Cornwall ,
Falmouth

Posted on July 15, 2024

We visit the South West’s coolest places to stay and discover how to squeeze every last drop of delight from the experience. Jo Rees does 24 hours at St Michaels Resort in Falmouth

Gosh, the gardens are gorgeous at St Michaels: a lush wonderland of palms, echiums and aeoniums next to Mediterranean grasses, silvery olive trees and the sky-blue blooms of spiky agapanthus flowers.

It makes you wonder why the design team made such a feature of the gardens when the glorious white sands and glassy waters of Gyllyngvase Beach are just at the end of the drive. However, the greenery creates a setting that takes the spa experience at St Michaels into another realm.

In fact, the distinguishing factor of St Michaels spa is its integrated inside/outside set-up. Indoors, a huge hydrotherapy pool (the South West’s largest), two steam rooms (Cornish sea salt and rainforest), a herbal sauna, treatment rooms, ice bucket and cold showers, plus warm lounge beds, are perfect for sloughing off tension and getting into the spa zone.

However, it’s on stepping outside that the transformative pleasure of this idyll really kicks in. A large whirlpool on the deck, an icy plunge pool, and a sauna with glass wall (revealing the surrounding luscious planting) deliver a feeling of having found the key to a secret garden. And with beds and lounging spots dotted among the foliage you can savour your post-spa buzz in tranquillity.

St Michaels Resort has plenty of accommodation options ‑ from family suites to smart rooms and luxe self-catered apartments ‑ but for those with whirlpools and saunas in mind, it’s impossible to beat the Spa Lodges.

Hidden in the gardens and just steps from the spa, the modern lodges are luxe-comfortable inside, and paired with standout alfresco features such as a private deck and garden with a copper tub for bathing under the stars, a cold shower (to rinse off sea water and sand), and heated lounging area. As Spa Lodge guests get unlimited access to the spa (slots are booked), most guests spend time mooching about in their complimentary robe and flip flops, flitting between their lodge and the facilities.

It’s not all about chilling out at this coastal resort, of course. Just across the car park sits its health club with a lane-swimming pool, a studio and a huge gym that’s all pumping beats and energised vibes. Or head to the beach for paddleboarding and the bracing pleasures of sea swimming ‑ as well as ice creams and lunch on the sand.

At this resort, pleasures of the culinary variety are taken as seriously as corporeal concerns. A food philosophy that champions local, fresh and seasonal produce from nearby farms and surrounding waters is delivered in two dining experiences. The roomy and nautical Brasserie on the Bay offers laid-back charm and sea views, turning smarter under the twinkle of evening lighting. Next to it, all-day-dining experience Nourish (right) delivers health focused casual dishes such as flatbreads with lemon roast chicken, miso mayonnaise, rocket, parmesan, chilli, avocado and tahini dressing, plus coffees and smoothies.

The resort has just welcomed a new head chef in the form of Darren Kerley, and expectations for his tenure are high. The Cornish chef has recently completed an award-winning two-year stint at Hotel Meudon, while previous roles saw him at The Dorchester as a junior sous, working under Marco Pierre-White at Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons, and with pioneering chef Alain Senderens at Lucas Carton in Paris.

Darren’s food ethos centres on letting quality ingredients shine via a light culinary touch, and he plans to deliver a comprehensive plant-inspired menu of small plates and Ottolenghi-style dishes.

That both indulgence and wellness are on the menu is in no doubt, and boosted further by the pleasures of a large bar, which is the perfect place to kick off dinner. Start with a pick from the signature cocktail list. When we visited, the Banana Stout was in full effect ‑ a caramel-hued creation, served in a rocks glass, and crafted from discarded-banana-peel rum, Rosemullion coffee liqueur, dark cacao, stout and banana foam. That’s the kind of feelgood we can definitely get on board with.