St Tudy Inn

Abi Manning scouts out St Tudy Inn under its new ownership, and discovers a vibrant kitchen team putting the foodie pub back on the map

What’s the draw?

You might have heard of the St Tudy Inn. Food lovers flocked to the Cornish village during the 2010s when former Great British Menu contestant and Food Reader Awards Best Chef Emily Scott made her name at the pub.

Ten years on from its original heyday, it’s the home of the next generation of bright young Cornish chefs and they’re writing a new chapter in the story of the much‑loved inn.

Who’s cooking?

Head chef George Buckley has hospitality running through his veins. Kitchens have been his sanctuary from the age of seven and he grew up helping his dad at the family restaurant. As a teenager, he worked at The Mill House before claiming his first head chef position at a local golf club.

George’s big break came when friend Simon Hobbs asked him to head up the kitchen at Tintagel Brewery Bar & Bistro, a venture that saw the pair gain higher membership into the Trencherman’s Guide and a coveted finalist spot for Best Newcomer at the Trencherman’s Awards 2023.

At St Tudy, George leads a dynamic kitchen crew comprised of fellow chefs Becks Taylor and Sam Bartley, plus an apprentice. The team are clearly having a lot of fun with this new venture, but their output is deadly serious. The dishes that flow from the pass exude a confidence that belies George’s informal training.

What to order?

Provenance and seasonality are the order of the day. Whatever time of year you visit, your plate will bear the jewels of north Cornwall’s shores and fields: Bodmin Moor wild venison, Cornish monkfish and Boscastle trout all feature.

We sampled the latter in a blood‑orange trout starter (pictured), a pick’n’mix delight of cucumber, hazelnut and pickled radish dotting the exceptional fish.

For mains, slices of Bodmin Moor venison shared plate space with a crunchy croquette encasing meltingly soft meat. Beetroot fondant and celeriac puree planted the dish even more solidly in the landscape and the season.

To finish we chose the richly dark choc crémeux, offset by the tang of blackberries and the umami note of stout ice cream.

Need to know

Avoid the dark moorland drive home by booking one of four well‑appointed rooms (one dog‑friendly) in a converted barn a few steps from the pub.

Upgrading to a gourmet getaway opens up the opportunities of sinking a nightcap in the bar (and having a bop if you’re fortunate enough to visit on one of the live‑music nights) and enjoying a hearty Cornish breakfast before exploring the local footpaths and coast.