Abi Manning lives the high life on the eighth floor of Courtyard Exeter Sandy Park at The View

What’s the draw?

We probably all hold some preconceptions about international-chain-hotel restaurants: the general view being they’re overpriced and serve inferior food compared with small local eateries. However, those assumptions need reconsidering when it comes to The View on the eighth floor of Courtyard by Marriott at Sandy Park. It’s well worth a spot on your list of must-visit Exeter restaurants.

The team who’ve taken over the site are determined to break the hotel-dining mould and have cultivated a family-run restaurant vibe in this sleek penthouse location. Chef Matt Mason (Dad) crafts the beautiful food for which he’s long been recognised in the area, Joanne (Mum) runs front of house as senior maitre d’, while restaurant manager/sommelier Charlie (son) impresses with his wine knowledge. It’s combined with warm hospitality and a passion for Devon’s quality produce.

As for that eponymous view, there’s no getting away from the fact that the restaurant towers over the M5. However, that fades into insignificance amid the vast panorama of lush countryside that rolls out beyond it.

Who’s cooking?

Devon-born Matt is the driving force behind this new vision for The View. He’s long had a fanclub of foodies: they raved about his cooking at The Jack in the Green for over 25 years, before he moved to nearby Winslade Manor which, as its chef director, he helped launch. When the opportunity arose to head up the kitchen at The View, Matt leapt at the chance – and brought the rest of the Mason clan with him.

What to order?

A concise three-course menu reveals refined dishes which reflect Matt’s experienced hand. However, if you’re in the mood for something more casual, a Mibrasa charcoal-grill menu delivers quality dry-aged steaks cooked over flame.

We began with house-made Guinness and treacle sourdough boules. They proved the perfect tools for swiping every last drop of the rich saffron and garlic sauce in a starter of flaky smoked haddock and St Austell Bay mussels. Another starter of braised pork belly provided a deliciously hot-salty-sour moment with its puff s of crackling, the punch of sweet chilli kimchi, and tangy pickled cucumber.

The dishes’ attractive simplicity reveals the confidence of an experienced chef who doesn’t need to over-embellish for the sake of it, but gives carefully chosen ingredients room to impress. This was especially evident in a main course of Creedy Carver duck breast with duck-leg bon bon, seville oranges and chicory jam. No unnecessary fripperies distracted attention from the perfectly pink and tender poultry.

A tonka-bean pannacotta, layered with seasonal rhubarb jelly and topped with ginger crumb and raspberry sorbet, provided a similarly restrained sweet finale.

Need to know

Arrive early as you’ll want to soak up the countryside views from the bar area. The slick and spacious spot has low sofas beside vast windows – the perfect space for lounging with an aperitif. Don’t be confined to the existing cocktail menu, either; Charlie and team are happy to shake up whatever takes your fancy.

For postprandial pleasures, perch at the lightbulbs-and-houseplant-festooned bar for a nightcap and soak up the live music.

theviewexeter.co.uk