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Rosanna Rothery visited Homewood near Bath and found a magical spot delivering thermal rejuvenation with a side of fine feasting
Cheers to the Romans for taking the Greek craze of communal bathing and turning it into a mania for wellness. If Emperor Nero could join us on our visit to Homewood, he might be nonplussed that marble and sculptures have given way to futuristic dining domes and an outsized teddy bear made from faux grass but, hey, this is therapeutic thermae for the selfie generation.
House of eccentricities
It’s not just the sweeping lawns and 22-acre grounds that are full of these delightful surprises either; the gabled Georgian mansion harbours its fair share of quirkiness, too. At first glance, it’s a conventionally beautiful country pile but step inside to discover a feast of visual fun. The reception area, for instance, is home to a veritable museum of antique timepieces and carriage-clocks, while the restaurant has not one but a whole host of chandeliers dangling in a dazzling cluster.
Therapeutic thermae
The let-your-hair-down vibe continues in the spa where water babies get a chance to revel in thermal therapy alfresco, thanks to a recent refurb.
This includes a heated outdoor vitality pool where guests can wallow in warm water as the sun’s rays caress their face. With its underwater benches and beds spurting jets of foaming water, it’s a paradise for lazy loafers. Braver souls venture into the metal cages that kick out less sedate bubbles. (Warning to whirlpoolers: these get pretty wild.)
This elemental spa experience also includes an outdoor heated swimming pool, ice-cold-water bucket experience and a eucalyptus sauna. There’s also an invitation to melt away the madness of daily life in the heated indoor whirlpool, sauna and steam room.
After thermal rejuvenation, guests can retreat to sip Champagne and chill in the relaxation room and round-the-pool seating areas. These also make superb post-treatment slouching spots. An hour-long GAIA bespoke massage in a little shepherd’s hut caused this haggard journalist to almost weep with joy as cemented shoulders were slackened and slid back down from ear level.
Soul food
Those staying at the hotel, on a spa day or a spa break can take advantage of other indulgent routes to wellbeing which include a couple of magical dining options. The glam Olio restaurant is the place to indulge in executive chef Jamie Forman’s superb British and Med dishes and generous feasting platters fashioned from garden and local produce.
It’s not unusual to spot ‛no-dig Darren’ (gardener Darren Stephens) in the kitchen garden, tending to produce for dishes in both the restaurant and the feasting domes – where chefs fire up the grill for lantern-lit, flame-licked feasts.
The hotel’s well-stocked Valentine’s Bar is as good an excuse as any to stay over in one of the 31 rooms (split between the house and Mallingford Mews), which each offer oodles of character, quirky artwork and luxurious touches.
After a sumptuous breakfast in the plant-laden conservatory with views over rolling Somerset countryside, it’s hard to tear oneself away from this oasis of hot pools, decadent treatments, alfresco saunas, enchanting gardens and arty interiors. We’ll be back.
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