Jane Rakison stops by a Somerset pub worth visiting for its food and quirky history
A local-stone pub, tucked into a quaint Somerset hamlet, wrapped within lush countryside and layered with old stories, is the perfect country-pub set-up. So it’s all the more surprising that Dinnington Docks has somehow escaped my attention for the five years I’ve lived in the county.
It’s the kind of place you either know about or are very pleased to stumble upon, and it relies as much on its loyal locals as it does on destination diners. Fittingly, it was a local who bought Dinnington Docks: Matthew Mills (pictured) took it on in 2018 after his wife spotted their much-loved village pub was up for sale.
Steeped in history
The pub’s name is rooted in local lore: once known as the Rose & Crown, it’s said to have been given its current name by North American soldiers stationed nearby during the second world war. They told superiors they were going to ‘the docs’ when making a visit to the pub.
A local revival
On selling his software business after the pandemic, Matthew (a front-of-house natural) turned his attention to the pub full-time. In 2025, he appointed Mitchell Anstey as head chef to take the Docks’ dining experience up a notch. Mitchell, who’d previously held sous chef positions at Holm and The Barrington Boar, brought experience in both modern dining and elevated pub cooking.
Refined pub plates
Mitchell’s menus feature reassuring casual classics as well as more aspirational dishes. Despite starters such as panfried scallops and pork belly yelling ‘pick me’, we plumped for the intriguing grilled flatbread with Driftwood cheese, roasted jerusalem artichoke, confit garlic and honey, which proved an excellent choice. Moreover, it arrived looking like the work of Victor Vasarely, all swirling patterns and textures and with nicely balanced proportions of each topping. It was swiftly devoured. Another starter of cauliflower and turmeric soup, flecked with chives, was velvety smooth.
For mains, the day’s pie – beef and paprika – was a handsomely presented dish: a large wedge of golden pastry filled with chunks of beef and accompanied by buttery cabbage and a generous quenelle of mash. The fish of the day was another showstopper: grilled red mullet with Wye Valley asparagus, romesco sauce, crispy new potatoes and cucumber vierge. Brightly plated, and with its array of textures, it was a triumph.
Desserts worth debating
The dessert menu at Dinnington Docks encourages vacillation: an affogato would be a modest way to end proceedings, while sticky toffee pudding holds pub-pud cult status … However, after deliciously tortured indecision, the apple crumble with homemade vanilla custard won us over. The pub also showcases a cheese selection that covers the full (pungent) spectrum and prioritises hyper-local choices, while beers and ciders by local makers are strongly represented, too.
